Big Pine Lakes
Photos Maps Summary: The stark and rugged Palisades subrange of the Sierra Nevada attracts many rock climbers, but the views of these high peaks, waterfalls, glaciers, wildflowers, and alpine lakes is plenty to keep hikers and backpackers alike busy on the North Fork Big Pine Creek Trail. Fishing is also popular in many of the lakes. The Palisades contain some of the Sierra's highest peaks (seven 14ers), its largest glacier (Palisade Glacier), and some of the best scenery. For these reasons, it is a popular area for backpacking but there is plenty of space to find some solitude. There are mosquitoes, especially around water, so bring some protection if staying overnight.Distance: 12.7 miles totalElevation Gain/Loss: 3,350' totalSeason: mid-June to late-OctoberFees & Permits: Permit required for overnighters (none for dayhikers)Finding the Trailhead: 37.12522 N, 118.43772 W (Big Pine Creek Trailhead). From the US-395/Crocker Street (between the Mobil and Shell stations) junction in Big Pine follow Crocker Street west out of town. Crocker Street turns into Glacier Lodge Road, crosses Big Pine Creek, and climbs up the Big Pine Creek Canyon. After a total of ~10.4 miles from US-395 the road reaches a junction (on the left) and you should see the trailhead straight ahead where the road is blocked off. There is limited day-use parking directly in front of the trailhead and a few more spaces at the intersection with the road leading over the creek toward Glacier Lodge. If you are backpacking you'll need to turn into the overnight parking area ~0.7 miles east. The backpacker's trail adds ~0.35 miles round-trip to the hike but offers fantastic views up the South Fork Big Pine Canyon.
The Hike: From the day-use trailhead, follow the road then trail to the southwest as it parallels the creek. Fortunately, there are many signs to indicate which is the correct path as many other paths and roads intersect the trail. Be on the lookout for the numerous wild rose bushes growing adjacent to the trail and creek. After about 1/4 mile the trail switchbacks up to the footbridge at the base of First Falls (~0.3 miles). Shortly after crossing the creek the North Fork Trail splits off to the right. Straight ahead is the South Fork Trail. The North Fork Trail immediately climbs and switchbacks its way to the northwest. In the summer there are many flowers blooming alongside the trail. The climb is in partial shade and is not too hot. After the last switchback the trail levels out some and heads north-northwest in shade to join an old dirt road (~0.8 miles). The trail then crosses the creek again on a footbridge and you can continue to the left or follow a trail up to meet the backpacker's trail. The left trail is shaded and mostly level until you reach the base of the Second Falls, then it switchbacks up to a four-way intersection and is longer (by ~0.25 miles). The other trail (which is the route we chose) steeply climbs up to join the backpacker's trail (at ~0.9 miles) on mostly sand. From here, is a steady desert incline to the same four-way intersection. This route is more exposed and warmer later in the day but offers superb views in either direction and there aren't any mosquitoes. Sulfur flowers also line the trail here. At ~1.45 miles the four-way intersection is reached. To the left is the lower trail mentioned earlier. To the right is the Baker Creek Trail. Stay straight and pass a sign indicating the rules for the John Muir Wilderness before the trail turns to the southwest and approaches the top of Second Falls (~1.9 miles) with lots of Bridge's Penstemon surrounding the trail.Now in the John Muir Wilderness, continue following the trail to the northwest before turning to the southwest again into some trees and past several seeps loaded with wildflowers. At ~2.55 miles a side-trail is reached that leads to the Lon Chaney Cabin (now owned by the US Forest Service) in Cienega Mirth (literally "Joyful Marsh"). Soon after this intersection the trail leaves the trees and switchbacks a few times beside Third Falls (~2.7 miles) before continuing in the shade. Three more pairs of small switchbacks are passed through before an alternate trail is reached (~3.25 miles). This side-trail is not clear and looks more like a dry creek to the west. We turned right here and followed this rough side-trail uphill to the southwest before the trail mostly disappeared. However, we soon found a marking for a snow survey point and a more obvious trail. We then took this trail out of the trees and continued climbing to the west before it turns to the southwest. At ~3.6 miles we came upon a fantastic view of First Lake Falls with Temple Crag, North Palisade, Thunderbolt Peak, and Mt Winchell in the background. From here the alternate trail continues to climb to the west-northwest and in places is overgrown, especially before reaching the main trail (~3.85 miles). The alternate trail is probably not easy to spot from the main trail, but runs into it at the switchback above the intersection with the First Lake Trail (~0.1 miles).
Follow the main trail as it steeply climbs to the northwest and passes through several pairs of small switchbacks. As you continue, the superb views over First and Second Lakes with Temple Crag behind continue to improve. Mt Gayley, North Palisade, and Thunderbolt Peak are also visible. If you approach horses on the trail, stay to the downhill side so you don't spook them. The trail passes back into some trees before reaching Black Lake at ~4.65 miles with a nice view of Sky Haven over the lake. After following the southern shore, the trail heads uphill to the southwest. At a sharp turn (~5.0 miles), there is a side-trail leading to the south and then southeast to an unfinished structure and incredible views over First, Second, and Third Lakes. I haven't been able to find any information about this stone structure and have only seen a few pictures of it. I hopped down on some boulders to the south and southeast of the structure to get more open views (travel at your own risk). Follow your steps back to the main trail (~0.5 mile round-trip). The main trail continues to the northwest and reaches a stream crossing next to a pond immediately southeast of Fourth Lake (~5.2 miles from the trailhead). There is another side-trail here leading to the north and the eastern shore of Fourth Lake. If you continue straight you'll run into a four-way intersection south of Fourth Lake in another ~0.15 miles. We turned right onto this side-trail and enjoyed the views of Two Eagle Peak and the fish cruising near the shore from the east side of Fourth Lake. On the north side of the lake we continued following a side-trail up the rocks to a set of fantastic viewpoints over the lake. From these viewpoints we could see Temple Crag, Mt Gayley, Mt Sill, North Palisade, the top of Palisade Glacier, Thunderbolt Peak, Aperture Peak, Two Eagle Peak, and Cloudripper. Summit Lake offers a little better view of the Palisade Glacier but we did not climb up to that lake. Instead, we cut over to the trail (~5.6 miles) to the west and then followed another side-trail (~5.65 miles) up and over to Fifth Lake's eastern shore (~5.8 miles). Sixth and Seventh Lakes can be reached by following the trail from Fourth Lake north and then northwest.
I climbed up some rocks to the north to get a better view over Fifth Lake. I've read accounts that there is a semi-secret trail from Fifth Lake's north shore up to Sixth Lake. I was hoping to check this out but we were running late and didn't have time to do it. The view from above Fifth Lake was superb, though. Temple Crag, Mt Gayley, Mt Sill, top of the Palisade Glacier, Mt Agassiz, Aperture Peak, Two Eagle Peak, and Cloudripper were all visible. The color of Fifth Lake was especially beautiful. We didn't see or hear a single person at Fifth Lake. It was great. We laid down and relaxed for a little while before heading out. This time we followed the traditional Fifth Lake Trail back to the four-way intersection south of Fourth Lake (~6.1 miles) and turned right to descend to Third Lake. This part of the trail is mostly shaded and heads steeply downhill to the junction with the Sam Mack Meadow Trail (~6.35 miles). Stay straight to continue toward Third Lake and reach a great viewpoint of the lake at ~6.6 miles. Leave the trail to the south to check out the view from the top of the nearby granite. Take in the beautiful aquamarine color, a product of glacial flour from the Palisade Glacier. The main trail makes several tight switchbacks before the final descent to the north shore of Third Lake. To get to the shore you'll need to leave the trail to the south near the middle toe (picture a chicken's foot, ~6.95 miles). Now the trail descends toward Second Lake to the northeast before reaching a viewpoint above the western end of the lake (~7.35 miles). However, a much better viewpoint is reached above the northern shore of Second Lake at ~7.6 miles featuring Temple Crag. Second Lake's color is similar to Third Lake's but the glacial flour isn't as concentrated. Lots of Mountain Pride and Penstemon line the trail for much of the way between the three lakes. From Second Lake's north shore the trail heads northeast over the exposed granite to a view of First Lake (~7.8 miles), the smallest of the three with the lowest concentration of glacial flour.
Continuing to the northeast, the traditional loop is closed at the main trail (~8.0 miles) just after crossing a creek. However, because we followed the alternative trail, our loop doesn't close for about another mile. Turn right to follow the North Fork Big Pine Creek Trail as it descends to the east and northeast and crosses the creek a couple more times. Our loop is closed at ~9.0 miles. The alternative trail saved us ~0.45 miles on the way up and gave us a better view of First Lake Falls. From here we followed our footsteps back to the trailhead (~12.2 miles, ~12.7 miles total with side-trip to the unfinished structure). We didn't take the alternative trail below Second Falls but we did stop briefly at the Lon Chaney cabin which was boarded up.
