While she waits... Villahermosa

Post date: Jun 12, 2010 11:45:09 PM

People must not run here. I started my day off with a jog in search of a hostel that appears to exist on a street that does not. The faces seem amused at me running. Maybe it’s my too-short-shorts. Add to that my gringo-ness, which surely accounts for most of the stares I get, and it’s easy to see how I’d stand out. My subsequent search for a cheaper hotel with internet confirmed that my present hotel here in downtown is the cheapest with internet, the reception here is so bad I must go out to a balcony or downstairs to do my research. The staff have moved me to a different room for my second day, but to no avail, and they said they want to try another room when it is vacated and cleaned. Interestingly, the employee who assisted me today with the internet is the same I guy I met at the door to a dance club I scoped out due to boredom last night. Up until 10:30pm, when I retired to my room, the bars were sparsely occupied, mostly by men, and the music was so-so. A band is playing around the corner tonight, so I may go listen to them.

After the run and room change I picked up 10 liters of water from the “Super” (grocery) along with some peanut butter, which is only found in big cities it seems (and then in small selections), and some Mexican candy. Then I ran into a guy selling “pozol” drinks and candy bar-like squares made of coconut and something else. After sipping my bland, grainy pozol th guy informs me that it is made with corn and chocolate. I tasted neither. Just mild bitterness. I decided this wouldn’t count against my chocolate-sobriety due to thirst and initial ignorance.

Later I found an internet café to print some letters that needed to go to T-Mobile (I’m trying to get them to waive my early termination fee… long story). They had computer booths in the back with cloths to completely enclose the viewer. I can imagine what they’re for. And those are the ones the front desk sent me to. The computer had to be tipped forward for the screen to work. 8 pesos for five minutes and two printed sheets. The post office was closed today. That, like everything, was hard to find, but people are happy to point me in the right direction, even if I don’t understand them.

Called the shop and learned my motorcycle needs a new clutch and won’t be done until Monday. We’ll see about that.

The owner of this hotel wears a white Indian-looking nightgown 24/7, and she is friendly. She accepted my negotiated price of 350 pesos/night. The staff are friendly, except for one. On the balcony, using the internet, he came up to me angrily and said I needed to not be nude on the balcony (I was wearing my running shorts and shoes only). I laughed. He insisted. I said I wouldn’t be there in the first place if my internet worked in my room as it should! I was surprised that the place cared about its image because by American standards it looks like ghetto here. But this is the downtown of Villahermosa, capital city of this state, Tabasco. The city has numerous rivers and lakes, and they are pretty, mostly, but trash floats in some areas, and there’s probably crocodiles in them, making me leery of swimming.

I found out that I can extend my tourist card if needed, and there is an office to conduct such business at the campus in town. Push come to shove, I may have to go there. Markus at Oiyakaha said he is well and waiting for me in his Amazonian jungle hut. I’m ready to head there, provided my bike cooperates. I need to have all the kinks worked out before I leave Cusco, Peru and descend into the Amazon. The Trans-Amazonian highway is long, has but a few small villages, is probably potholed, and isn’t likely to bless me with dry weather. Mexico was supposed to be a breeze while the Amazon was going to be my challenge, I thought. Shows what I know. Of course, maybe Mexico WILL be a breeze compared to what’s ahead!

I’d love to try some more tacos tonight, but I think it will be celery with peanut butter (I am addicted to PB), and maybe some Ramen. Maybe I can find an English-speaker tonight. Fewer such speakers here than anywhere I’ve been yet.

And about loneliness: many asked me, “Aren’t you going to be lonely?” I replied, “Yes.” This is a new level of loneliness, being unable to speak the language of those around you. Put me in the middle of a forest in North America and the trees and I will converse to no end. Swarmed by my own species? That is when I am apart. Add to that a language barrier, and it’s more painful to attempt to befriend that to sit in peace by the river. And when it comes to any relationship, is it really much more than language in its many forms? Ie. communication. And I am beginning to wonder if I’d feel less lonely if I wasn’t clinging to my internet communications to those who simply are not here.

At least I have my peanut butter-syrup dip, bread, and milk. My favorite snack.