Bogota 7: Concrete Plans, Cultural Studies, Motorcycle

Post date: Oct 29, 2010 3:31:06 AM

I began teaching another fascinating resource of information today. The student is a lawyer specializing in environmental law, and her goal is to return to Canada with sufficient English to support her through her graduate school. Here at ANH, the governmental agency appointed as the distributor and monitor of oil exploration and drilling contracts in Colombia, she is responsible for ensuring that all involved parties are happy- the indigenous communities on whose lands the oil resides, the corporations pursuing the oil, and the Colombian government and economy. Given that this falls deeply into the social science category, my area of expertise, it reminded me that English teaching is truly my first-hand trial in anthropological field research. Often, speaking to these students, I feel less like I am teaching English and more like I am interviewing them about their culture, government, educational system, economy, religion, morals, values, and interests. It is a near-perfect route to feed my intellectual appetite.

Colombia is divided into developed and undeveloped regions. The developed areas are still developing, as do all non-stagnant, dynamic civilizations, and these regions reside more along the coasts and central part of the country, with its major cities being Cartagena, Barranquilla, Medellin, Cali, and Bogota. The undeveloped regions are the mountains and Amazon of southern Colombia, in which reside the indigenous and guerillas.

It is to this undeveloped region that oil companies usually go for their money, and to work there they must purchase a contract through ANH. ANH advertises and sells contracts, and once purchased, they ensure the companies adhere to the tenets of the contract. There are both environmental and social impacts to the areas tapped by the oil companies. According to my student, the environmental laws of Colombia are more developed and enforced. This is easily understood given that environmental impact is more easily quantified. The company must pay for each tree they cut and clean up any spills, etc. The social impact, however, is seldom enforced or reported until the indigenous communities protest and strike.

The villages are poor, materialistically speaking, and have the right to demand compensation for the right of the company to explore or drill on their lands. This compensation used to take the form of cows. They were paid with cows. With modern times, however, they have learned to request other forms of payment like libraries. Still, my student agrees with me that the requests of the communities are usually more than easily accommodated by the rich oil companies. So, when the company comes in, they flood the town with money, and for a short period, say 3 months to 3 years, the village is industrialized and infiltrated by Western Society. Culture is lost, I am sure, as new technology, language, education, and customs are introduced to the people. Going from what is likely a barter/trade economy to a symbolic or token economy (cash) has its influences also. A depersonalizing influence, I’d imagine. After the company leaves, the money leaves, but how does the community adjust to the reduction of modern resources? Do children leave the village to pursue Western civilization?

Prostitution escalates when the company arrives. Women make excellent money doing this because the competition and supply of women is low; they are in the wild and most oil workers are men. The life and culture of prostitution carries its own dangers and effects on society. What is the prevalence of STDs in these communities before and after these companies’ introductions?

Damage to the people, directly and indirectly, is far less measurable and enforceable than damage to the environment. Not until the village unites and shuts down its services or creates other conflicts with the oil company does something happen. There is little to protect the people from these modern pioneers, miners, and outlaws; it’s a wild land. My student tries to maintain a balance of interest satisfaction between all involved parties. Afterall, oil is big business for Colombia. By the sounds of it, it is not an easy job, and there is much room for improvement in the justice department. The thing that saddens me most in this world is the homogenization of culture; I hope my children never see the day where a Starbucks or Walmart or McDonalds sits on every corner. I hope there is never one religion, one race, one government, one language. Would things be smooth and comfortable? Yes. But dreadfully boring. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again- we MUST keep a certain measure of disagreement, conflict, and violence in this world. How many movies become best sellers because of their action and violence? How many movies are based on historical wars? We are a dramatic species; we love stories, and as my 8^th grade teacher taught me, there is no story without conflict. So, go out and fight someone today. Hehe

Another couple of my students gave me their opinion that the 3 murdered women per day statistic is actually quite low. They said it is not uncommon to find just such articles in the newspaper. They also say that the vast majority of physical abuse goes unreported. I do not doubt this. Women here are objectified here more than in the U.S. Billboards flashing women’s bodies is very common. I have seen one mall window that actually shows a topless woman. My students said that it mothers typically try to get their daughters to be as beautiful as possible, hoping that they will become models and actresses so that the family can make lots of money. The children thereby learn their gender roles. Boys see men hitting their mothers, and they see their mothers do nothing to change the situation. Leaders engage in this culture; one Colombian Colonel recently slaughtered his wife and chopped her limbs into pieces. These students of mine agree that greater education is needed about the psychological violence that often precedes physical violence.

Protest. Downtown was shut down earlier this week due to a riot initiated by university students. It was in response to the recent government announcement that it intended or already had approved greater funding for military bases and reduced funding for education. In my eyes and in the eyes of my students, this is exactly the opposite of what is needed. What is needed is culture change. The military is a necessary evil at this time for it keeps the guerillas in check, but the long term solutions will not be realized without bottom-up social transformation. With both parents here often working, more education responsibilities fall on the shoulders of the school system.

A few days ago I saw a taxi cab with shiny rims that looked more expensive than the car itself. I like a man passionate about his job. As I left my apartment, he gestured to the rims. I thought it was phenomenally stupid at first, but now it’s hilarious. Why not love and decorate your office?

I booked my flight to Leticia today. This is in spite of the fact that it is no more legal to fly the bike out than to ride it out. DIAN, on Monday, had me wait 4.5 hours to contradict itself time and again and to leave me no different than when I walked in. When I had first attempted to extend my motorcycle registration, a boss lady said I could fly it out since extension was impossible with my student visa. Monday, I went there to verify this and obtain paperwork proving the legitimacy of flying my expired, imported motorcycle to the border to leave the country. Upon arrival, I was led from one desk to another. The workers here did not even know each other’s names or who was the boss where. One man was adamant that I could have extended my permit on the student visa the day that I first came, but that now it was too late. Nice. I eventually found myself (Vicky was with me, translating), at the desk of the top boss herself. She had every inch of boss in her. Just that aura of bossiness- steady, deep voice, over-groomed and professionalized, and serious. And she did nothing to help me. She spoke with the lady who on my first day said I could fly it out. Turns out, I could have flown it out only that same day. Right. “So what do I do?” I asked. She offered me no suggestions or directions. She just said it is illegal and that they will not produce my exportation paperwork. Can’t stay, can’t leave. Colombia enjoys an otherworldly existence free from the confines of logic, time, space, and all other universal laws. It is a relief, in a way, that no one knows what the heck is going on. That means I can talk my way out of it in Leticia. Afterall, DIAN just fired 1000 people, so they must believe me. But, to tide me over, my friend is making me some phony documents to help me slide through the checkpoints around Bogota. Not sure if I’ll use them at the border, but I gotta ride. This weekend Vicky and I are headed to the Llanos Orientales, a beautiful countryside. A student of mine is letting us join her at her brother’s farm over this holiday weekend.

Gave the reference numbers for the broken part of my camera to Panasonic today. See if that goes anywhere. They’ve been no help so far.

Got paid this week for my September classes. That was nice. All cash. About $750 total. Yup, that’s less than what my formerly homeless, mentally clients received from Disability back in California.