City & Culture
The City as an Academic Aid
In choosing a class about the history of Barcelona as a city, I expected (per the syllabus) to learn about the physical elements of the city and how they connected to Spanish historical events. I did not expect to get personalized walking tours from my very knowledgeable professor where I could see these sites up close. However, that was a regular occurrence in my class, Barcelona: The Cosmopolitan City. I was fascinated to learn about the detailed events that has literally shaped the city into it what it is today. I read about the founding of the city in 12 B.C. and then literally walked the Roman streets. I heard about the medieval walls and saw parts of where they are still standing. I learned about the siege of the city in 1714 and then walked on the ground that was the military fortress. It was truly incredible to be living such history out in my daily life and learning about it in the classroom each week too.
Today we explored sites important during the Spanish Civil War, which I found more important than any other time period because the Spanish have a pact of forgetting about the war. There are no museums or monuments dedicated to that conflict and the many tragedies and struggles. There is silence. The remaining structures from that time that we saw on our walk today are all that is left to tell the story.
Studying abroad opened my eyes to how important the city itself is as a living archive of stories from the past. People move and die but cities stand true and hold treasures in their walls of times gone by. Let us not forget all that we can learn from our cities.
A Morning at the Labyrinth Park
I did even not know this beautiful park existed in Barcelona until some friends (thanks Eva and Mary) suggested it for a sunny Saturday morning adventure. We had a wonderful time simply wandering around the gorgeous grounds of this former private residence. As the largest and oldest garden in the city, it was like something straight out of a fairy tale! The dusty narrow paths were lined with shrubs and flowers. The classical statuary was housed under columned domes. The literal labyrinth took us longer to figure out than we are willing to admit!
Every step led us to a new discovery: a large pool, a rocky waterfall, a romantic fountain, a headless statue... around each corner was a stunning classical treasure. The space transported me to a different world; I was no longer surrounded by the hustle bustle of Barcelona but instead smelling flowers and singing with the birds in a dreamland. The park brought to life something I had previously only see in storybooks and movie screens. We strolled for an hour or two and didn't even make it to every corner of the garden. A fascinating expanse of trees, flowers, hedges, statues, and fresh air, this place is a hidden treasure of Barcelona--and my new happy place.
Getting Political
In case you haven't been following world news lately, Barcelona is currently in the middle of a hot political situation. The city is the capital of Catalonia, one of the seventeen autonomous communities in Spain (like states). In October 2017, Catalonia voted to secede from Spain and become its own independent country; however, Spain said this vote was unconstitutional. Now the twelve leaders who supposedly orchestrated this illegal referendum are facing trial after already being held in jail for over a year. While many Catalans are still pushing for independence from Spain, more are upset over this unjust treatment of the political prisoners. Today classes were canceled as Barcelonins took to the streets in a city-wide strike to protest the unfair trial of their former leaders and the overbearing Spanish government. Much much more is going on in Madrid between political parties and the Prime Minister at the moment, but I'll spare you the details since all I know is what I've gleaned from the Spanish nightly news.
My largest takeaway from this situation is that I'm happy I'm here to witness it. As resident of the capital of an independentist state, I've gained an entirely new perspective on the movement and Spanish politics--a perspective that I'm sure would be very different if I were studying in Madrid. I am glad I'm here to understand the conflict first-hand, because I don't think I would be paying much attention to it otherwise. Yes I have formed a personal belief on the situation--an informed belief and a belief that surprises even myself--but it's a strong view that I would not have held as a spectator across the ocean. The political events of this semester will go down forever in Spanish history. I feel fortunate to be witnessing the situation unfold, and I have no doubt that this time in Spain will shape my political perspective on future matters worldwide.
One of the tourist staples of Barcelona, Park Güell is a modernist's playground designed by Antoni Gaudí. At first look, I was amazed by the skillful marriage of architecture and nature. It oozed the Gaudí flair that lives all over Barcelona yet the droopy trees and chirping birds transported me to a tropical world far away from the city. The paradise seemed to stretch on forever in winding dirt paths and staircases.
Detracting from such natural and artistic beauty were the swarms of people darting from one photogenic background to the next. Though I too waited in line for that Insta-worthy shot, I realized there was so much more to explore than the glazed mosaic benches toward which everyone flocked. I am hoping to go back with a smaller group to simply be able to walk around, climb all the staircases, and focus on enjoying the view instead of capturing it on camera. Much of the park was also under construction during my visit, which is just another reason I'll have to return when it's not peak visiting hours and I am able to explore more of the vastly beautiful space for myself.
In the end my semi-guided visit to Park Güell was an adventure and a chance to see what the hype was all about. While I found the paid entrance area to be overrated and partially closed, I think the rest of the park is severely underrated. I'm already planning my next visit! (Seriously, I got a map.)
An Afternoon on Passeig de Gràcia
Often the best days start with no plan, so I'm thankful I didn't have any idea what my Saturday would entail when I woke up. Although my homestay is very cozy, I knew I wanted to take advantage of the city and explore Barcelona while I could. The biggest hurdle was where to begin? After breakfast I started flipping through my trusty guidebook (thanks Lonely Planet) and soon spotted something that seemed manageable for my afternoon--and much cheaper than the aquarium I had first considered. It was an architecture walking tour that caught my eye, featuring the most famous Modernist buildings from Gaudí and his associates. So with my book and a plan I hopped on the metro to reach the first stop of the tour.
Although it was covered with scaffolding, I could still make out the whimsical details of Casa Batlló, one of Gaudí's creations. I didn't brave the long lines and high prices to explore inside, but it was incredible just to stand on the street before the masterpiece. Next door I admired Casa Amatller and then walked down the street to the uniquely picturesque Fundació Antoni Tàpies. It was incredible to be able to stop and gaze up at these iconic buildings I had previously seen only from guidebooks and postcards. To avoid a noisy protest parade (I didn't stick around to find out what it was about), I took a detour to grab some food. Cerveseria Catalana hit the spot with their "montaditos," bite-sized appetizers on slices of bread.
Refueled I got back on the path only to be distracted by a book store, where I purchased two chemistry workbooks in Spanish. (TBD on how that turns out!) Souvenirs in hand, I marched on to the highlight of the tour, Casa Milà also known as La Pedrera. I was stunned to see how large the former apartment building was, taking full command of the corner it occupied. With time to spare before my timed ticket, I wandered on to the last two stops on the suggested walking tour: Palau del Baró Quadras and Casa de les Punxes. They were both stunningly beautiful structures that towered over the streets. Back at La Pedrera I was absolutely amazed at Gaudí's innovative and whimsical architecture from the early 20th century. It was like something from a dream yet people actually lived in the building. I've never seen anything like it, but now I know where Dr. Seuss got some of his inspiration!
After a full day of architecture I ate and shopped some more amidst sprinkles from the darkening sky. I only stepped into a few shops I couldn't afford, and purchased practical mementos at the ones I could. Despite the light afternoon rain and walking in a few circles, it was a pleasant Saturday exploring the busy streets of Barcelona's famous Passeig de Gràcia.
Hiking in Collserola
This weekend I finally got to wander in the great outdoors of Barcelona's bordering mountain range, the Serra de Collserola. It was drizzling rain, as it rarely does in the region, when we (myself and three other students) started our ascent under the leadership of two program staff. Once we made the jump from paved sidewalk to dirt trail, the rain started to give way to a cloudy blue sky above the trees. The first hour or two we went up and over the mountain. It was a steep, rocky climb--with multiple breaks--but my sweaty face finally made it to this amazing view of Barcelona.
It was actually harder going down the other side of the mountain. Our shortcut was so steep and very slippery thanks to all the rain. My knees were not very happy with me! At one point I had to get down and use my hands just so I wouldn't fall as far if I did slip. It was a physical and mental challenge for sure...but we made it! The rest of the trek was fairly flat through the natural park. It was muddy but I didn't mind trading clean shoes for some fresh air. I felt so refreshed just to be away from the city and among the trees. We walked for another hour or so and sat down to eat lunch just outside the town of Sant Cugat. From there we hopped on the train back to the city because we had already surpassed our 10,000-step goal for the day. About three hours from where we started, the sun was shining brightly and the weather had done a complete 180. It ended up being a beautiful day to explore the lush mountain landscape around Barcelona.
Fresh from the Market
Between classes I was able to walk down the street to explore Barcelona's famous "Mercat de la Boqueria" (Butcher's Market). True to its name there were plenty of butcher stands under the large open-air pavilion. I saw every cut of meat imaginable, slimy silver fish, crabs trying to jump off their ice, sheep skin, and plenty of pig legs. Since I did not desire to purchase any of the above, I was more interested by the brilliant displays of fresh-cut fruit and colorful juices. They were so cheap compared to cafe prices. I bought a cup of watermelon for 1.5 € ($1.75)--and it was so tasty! I had to restrain myself from buying every fruit in sight, especially the dragon fruit, mango, and ruby-red strawberries. They had quite literally any fruit I could think of. I was also tempted by the bins of nuts, dried fruits, and chocolates by the kilogram. In addition, some of the stands were like restaurants offering tapas, pizza, burritos, and chicken strips. I was impressed by the sheer variety of items available! Who needs a grocery store when everything at the market is cheaper and fresher? You can bet I'll be back! Catch me at the fresh bread stand ;)
Welcome to City Life
After getting over my jet lag and eating a carb-filled breakfast (as is typical here), I set out with my roommate to purchase a metro card and find our way to the school. The metro popped up on the edge of Placa de Catalunya, a central shopping and eating area of the city. We wandered around each edge of the square trying to find a street name that would point us in the right direction. We did soon find the school, which would be our second home for the next four months. It was welcoming to be around so many American students again, especially since I had felt so isolated upon arriving at my homestay.
I mainly stayed in the school center my first day, exploring virtually through my guidebook and iPhone maps to try and gain a sense of where I was. At lunch we ventured into the enormous department store across the street to get our phones in order and grab some food. Although much was familiar about the surroundings (like McDonald's and Starbucks), the most unfamiliar part was the language. The second day I just walked around the block, looking at every store sign and restaurant menu to understand what the area was like. The "discoveries" put on by IES also helped me get my bearings as we walked around the gothic area of town, both nights guided by a character of a professor with deep insights on the dynamic of the area. I was amazed to see remnants of original Roman walls and cathedrals still standing. The youngest buildings in that area are as old as the United States itself!
Walking around with other students and local guides was a great way to get an overview of the area and make a list of everything I needed to come back to visit during my time here. The city of Barcelona has so much to do and I'm excited to start checking places of my ever-growing list. I'm thankful I've figured out the basics of the metro and such so that the fun can begin without feeling overwhelming like it did at first.
