Archived Blog Posts
January
Now Landing in Barcelona
I arrived at El Prat airport midday on Monday. Although I hadn't slept much on the plane, I didn't feel too jet-lagged because I had awoken to chase the sunrise into Europe. The taxi ride to my home was a moment where I asked myself if this was really happening. Was I finally arriving in the place I'd been talking, learning, and dreaming about for nearly a year? YES! We sped through the city and I was just amazed at how the houses looked, what the roads were like, and how exciting but unknown everything was. My new life was swirling outside around me!
Dropped in front of the door to my home for the next four months, I somehow figured out which apartment to ring to tell my host mom I had arrived. I chose correctly, squeaked out my name, and lugged my suitcase inside. Unsure of what to do next, I waited in the lobby of the building until I said "hola" to my host mom and she mercifully showed me the tiny elevator. She showed me to her apartment and into my room, explained (in rapid Spanish) where I could put my things and then we sat down to meet my roommate. I just sat there silently listening to her speak with my fluent roommate, processing where I had just landed. This was it.
Unsure of what I was supposed to do next, I started unpacking and settling into my new life. I was so overwhelmed at the new language and circumstances. Although I was very excited to finally be there, I had no idea what the next four months would bring. I hoped for memorable adventures, improved Spanish skills, and good food, but at that moment I was unable to process what might come next. I was starting a new journey, across the ocean, far away from anything that felt comfortable, not knowing anyone, and, although I was up for the challenge, it felt like a tough road ahead.
Welcome to City Life
After getting over my jet lag and eating a carb-filled breakfast (as is typical here), I set out with my roommate to purchase a metro card and find our way to the school. The metro popped up on the edge of Placa de Catalunya, a central shopping and eating area of the city. We wandered around each edge of the square trying to find a street name that would point us in the right direction. We did soon find the school, which would be our second home for the next four months. It was welcoming to be around so many American students again, especially since I had felt so isolated upon arriving at my homestay.
I mainly stayed in the school center my first day, exploring virtually through my guidebook and iPhone maps to try and gain a sense of where I was. At lunch we ventured into the enormous department store across the street to get our phones in order and grab some food. Although much was familiar about the surroundings (like McDonald's and Starbucks), the most unfamiliar part was the language. The second day I just walked around the block, looking at every store sign and restaurant menu to understand what the area was like. The "discoveries" put on by IES also helped me get my bearings as we walked around the gothic area of town, both nights guided by a character of a professor with deep insights on the dynamic of the area. I was amazed to see remnants of original Roman walls and cathedrals still standing. The youngest buildings in that area are as old as the United States itself!
Walking around with other students and local guides was a great way to get an overview of the area and make a list of everything I needed to come back to visit during my time here. The city of Barcelona has so much to do and I'm excited to start checking places of my ever-growing list. I'm thankful I've figured out the basics of the metro and such so that the fun can begin without feeling overwhelming like it did at first.
Preservation of Spirit and Circumstance
Friday morning I walked steeply uphill for about half an hour for amazing views of the city and a brief history lesson. With several other classmates, I hiked up to the Carmel bunkers and overlooked the city. I was surprised to not only see the abandoned air raid defenses, but also to see remnants of tile flooring and concrete foundations. The professor who was our tour guide explained that when the population of Barcelona expanded so rapidly from 1930-1970, people built homes up here, but this is all that was left of them. The cracked tiles area is all that remains of any similar housing region from that time in Barcelona. They were all destroyed a few decades ago, but the fragments of this neighborhood were left to preserve the memory of those people who risked everything but were eventually kicked out of the city.
While the local government could have made it into an aesthetically-pleasing park or garden, I applaud them for leaving it as raw and true as they could. Signs along the hill explain the history of the area and help visitors make sense of what once stood on the ground they have hiked. The bunkers gave an amazing view of the city (I'm going back at sunset some day), but they also provide physical proof of the rocky past of Barcelona. From losing independence in the Spanish Civil War to being under a dictator who removed thousands of people from the city, these ghosts of houses and strong bunkers still stand--however small--atop a city they once knew and defended. Barcelona, I see you.
Today I visited my first international museum! I was a bit surprised to find how little the concept differed from an American museum: there were traveling exhibits, interactive screens, looped videos, encased objects, audio tours, and items to assist in creating the atmosphere desired. I was also very relieved to find all the paneling and descriptions were posted in English (alongside Spanish and Catalan). Considering the challenge of displaying three languages, the simplicity, organization, and flow of each exhibit impressed me that much more.
The museum did a fantastic job of creating a complete space that added to the visitor experience. Whether the paneling was written on concrete blocks or objects displayed in shipping containers, the presence of the port and its importance to Barcelona could not be overlooked. My favorite exhibit/object was the full-scale reproduction of the Royal Galley. My jaw literally dropped when I first noticed it. The details were so minute that it seemed more a work of art than a sailing vessel. I very much appreciated the multiple levels of platforms, which allowed me to explore the ship from all angles.
The building itself was maybe the highlight of my visit. I found it absolutely stunning that the museum was housed in the actual old ship-building yards. The tall ceilings and strong stone arches really brought the vibe to life. The Maritime Museum of Barcelona took me through the ages to discover how the port of Barcelona has changed over the years, right up until present-day, which I could look out the window and see for myself.
Also I think ↓this↓ is super cool and a wonderful idea for museums across the globe. (description to left)
The Thing about Study Abroad Professors
After one week of classes, I can say I'm very much looking forward to what I will learn in Barcelona this semester. A large part of this anticipation and excitement is due to the professors I have, who seem to be distinctly set apart from most American university educators. So what's the difference?
Their Global Perspectives
Two of my professors are originally from the United Kingdom. Two were born in Madrid. The other one I'm not sure about, but it's definitely somewhere I've never been! They've studied, worked, and taught in England, New York, Mexico, Canada... These people have worldwide perspectives on people, places, ideas, and most especially the subject they are teaching me. On the first day of class, my history professor from Scotland explained how, growing up in Britain, he was given a very different version of the American Revolution than what I grew up hearing. His told a tale of the "ungrateful colonists," but he also realized that we Americans probably saw it as excessive taxation without any say in the Parliament. I believe this international point of view brought by my professors will be of utmost value since I am taking mainly history courses. History itself is recorded by people with differing perspectives on events, which can often lead to biased reports and therefore skewed learning. I'm excited to hear more sides of the (his-)story.
Their No-Technology Policies
While this sent some students running, I was happy to comply with the mandate of pencil and paper notes. No laptops. No tablets. No phones. While notebooks are typically my first choice anyway, it was refreshing to meet professors who had such strong beliefs and evidence to support their rules. One professor even revealed that she had taught a semester where she allowed half her class sections to use technology and the other half could not. Guess which sections got significantly (3%) higher overall grades? Exactly, the ones who weren't emailing, shopping, and scrolling through social media during lecture. Another professor pointed out how--because you cannot write as fast as someone speaks--taking notes by hand forces your brain to process and consolidate the information, while typing notes is just transcribing, not learning. That means less time spent studying (or rather re-learning) later on? Color me convinced.
Their Interactions with Students
"Take a guess. The worst you can be is wrong," is how my professor tried to get us to participate in class on the first day. Granted the guess was wrong but it was nice to be encouraged for trying. As I've experienced so far in Spain (even on syllabus day), these classes run on student participation. The professors want to hear what their students know, how they think, and why they are enrolled in the class. From a student perspective, this makes me feel valued and involved, even if my insights aren't exactly on par every time. By the second day of class, I was very surprised to hear more than one of my professors call me by name. How can they know my name already? I thought. Last fall, few of my professors knew me by more than my test scores. I was even more taken aback to hear this outside of class. They said hello to me. In the hallway. By name. After knowing me for three days. I have concluded it was because I participated on the first day of class, and that's the best participation ribbon I've ever received.
Needless to say I'm optimistic about the change of pace this semester will bring to my collegiate academic endeavors. I'm taking classes that require me to think in different ways than I usually do with professor who are a bit more intense than I've had before. I can already tell it will be a semester full of pondering gazes, puzzled faces, and lots of thoughtful "huh" sounds. But as always, I'm embracing the challenge.
This government-funded “center for the image” is exactly that. It provides a beautiful space for artists to show their eye-catching, head-scratching images to the public. The collections on display this winter are works that invite the viewer to consider the challenges of others.
The first exhibition told the journey of an artist who lost his arms as a child but was determined to pursue a career in art, nonetheless, by learning to use his feet better than I can use my hands. His painting, sketches, and model work was deeply engaging yet almost playfully intense. The collection included many self-portraits and creative photos, which helped me "get to know" the artist so I could better understand his story. The works were incredible in themselves but appeared incomprehensibly more beautiful once I discovered they were created by foot. My favorite piece was a huge tapestry portrait, which I eventually realized was a collection of colored footprints, each carefully placed to form a strikingly fierce face and hair flying out from it. It was magical and perfectly culminated the feeling of the exhibition.
The other exhibit featured photos from working-class families enduring 1970's Great Britain. While no image was spectacular on its own, together they showed a way of life during that time. The images were powerfully raw and intimately detailed. I was impressed by the sheer vision it took to create the collection and the skill used to tell the collective story. Along with the photos were dialogues of interviews that expressed real circumstances of those fighting through impoverishment.
The Virreina was a beautiful building in itself, enhanced by the simple paintings and photographs hung effortlessly on the white walls. Videos and anecdotes complemented the art and brought to life the messages of the artists. With free admission every day, this space is a somewhere everyone can come to learn, grow, and find a deeper appreciation of human emotions.
Although the day of my visit was cold and windy, the military castle on MontjuĂŻc, built in the 17th century, stood strong and tall nevertheless. The chilling air was actually quite on theme of the dark and mysterious fort, which hosted many political and military executions throughout its time as an active prison. As I wandered through the dim hallways, I noticed a number of mysteriously beautiful stone sculptures and plaques, which contrasted the starkness of the place. In the rooms off of the halls, there were even a few small exhibits providing more details on both historic and current events. Although Castell MontjuĂŻc has a violent past, the site is now focusing on how to promote peace in the region.
The exterior of the infamous fort was nothing especially castle-like, but the views of the city from the top level were unrivaled. As any strong defense system necessitates, the sea and the land could be seen for miles. Large weapons were pointed in every direction, which is troubling for some Barcelonins because it means the fort was once used to attack the city instead of defend it.
Castell MontjuĂŻc, with its daunting aesthetic and sweeping views, was a place to reflect on the past tumults of Barcelona. It is where Catalan leaders became martyrs for their culture and where foreign powers rose up against the city. The past events encompassed by this site speak for themselves. One is able to feel the history of the brick structure instead of reading about it on panels of text.
Tarragona "Study Journey"
This weekend I went on an overnight trip with my fellow American students to see the countryside of Spain. We drove down the coast to smaller towns and spent the night in Tarragona to experience elements of Spanish culture and heritage. We toured a monastery, walked through ruins of an ancient Roman city, attempted to build human towers (castells-- a Catalan tradition), and tasted roasted onions with Romanesco sauce in a messy "calçots" feast. It was great to get out of the city and explore!
Our first stop on the study journey was a monastery built in 1150 and still in use today. On our guided tour we were able to walk where the monks of the past once slept, ate, studied, and worshipped. One fun fact I enjoyed: this monastery was a rural residence for King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella after they financed Christopher Columbus's journey to America. King Ferdinand's parents are also buried in the church, which I thought was the most beautiful part of the property. The altar and the stained glass are so detailed, and I felt an overwhelming sense of holiness walking into the place. Overall the monastery is very well taken care of and impressively spacious. It's incredible to think about people who built the structure and the monks who walked the halls almost 1000 years ago.
I never would have expected to find such well-preserved Roman ruins in Tarragona. I felt like a kid in a candy store (conservator in an ancient town??) walking through the "living museum" of the city. I was surprised how the first-century walls, floors, and structures were integrated right into the modern setting of Tarragona. On our walking tour of the historic city, we first visited the gothic cathedral that now stands on the place of the ancient Roman temple, as is common all over the Mediterranean from when the empire converted to Christianity. Next we traced the boundaries of the old city walls and climbed the lookout tower positioned at one of the corners, which offered amazing views of the city, the sea, and the rest of the ruins. We descended the tower and wandered through the underground tunnels leading to the Roman circus, where spectators once bet on chariot races. Literally tracing the footsteps of citizens from so long ago was indescribable. Finally we ventured down to the shore to see the amphitheater, which hosted gladiator fights back in the day. I actually got to sit on the seats and experience the same view as 2000 years prior, another incomprehensible moment. The whole tour I just tried to soak everything in, snap pictures of the old with the new, and imagine the experiences of people in this place throughout history.
These sites in Tarragona are truly magnificent, but they represent a common issue facing the area today: how to make history accessible but still preserved. Although much of Tarragona's Roman ruins are exposed for the public to literally trample over time, other parts are well-protected and out of reach for visitors. At this moment, I believe the city of Tarragona deserves credit for the ways it has integrated its past into its present and will continue to keep it for the future. As someone who is planning to deal with these dilemmas as part of my career, I very much appreciated this experience.
Embracing My Midwestern Roots While Abroad
After being in Spain for nearly three weeks, I've come to appreciate the things that remind me of my home state of Iowa. Corn, tractors, and deer-crossing signs make me smile. I feel proud to tackle a large chunk of meat with a fork and knife. The smell of bonfire feels like a comforting hug. It's these tidbits, which I usually take for granted, that seem familiar even across the ocean.
Living abroad, especially in the city, has helped me to embrace the small-town culture I come from. Removed from the Midwest, I now more fully appreciate open spaces, large lakes, rolling hills, and grazing animals. The open-air atmosphere and "Iowa nice" community are very much parts of my background and my comfort zone.
As someone who is planning to live in a larger city after college, this unexpected longing for farmland was a little psychologically unsettling. However, I realized that it's not that I want to live in the middle of nowhere for the rest of my life, it's that I can now proudly define where I'm from. I'm from the place where people wave at every passing vehicle. I'm from the place where we work hard and aren't afraid to get dirty. I'm from a the place where Hawkeye football and beer are the perfect pair. I'm from the place where you can walk for miles and only see your own footsteps. I'm from the place where the weather is as unpredictable as the construction. I'm from the place where family is the definition of love.
All those things and more are what the Midwest means to me. It's not so much that I miss all those comforts of "home" (although I do), it's that my home made me who I am. It's knowing that the Great Plains and Loess Hills of Iowa will always be there to welcome me whenever I need a break from the mountains or the sea or the city. Thank you family and friends who have made Iowa a place where I feel at home. I promise I'll never forget where I come from. No matter how far I travel, I will always look forward to coming home.
Madrid
I didn't have many expectations before my visit to Spain's largest and capital city, but I was very impressed. The streets were filled with 20th-century charm and modern magic. Even though the population is double Barcelona's, I felt much more laid back than the hustle bustle I've gotten used to. Madrid has many public squares, of which I still couldn't tell you the correct names, but I walked through them all. The center of the city was filled with streets I didn't know were streets and shops of every shape and size. Every inch seemed elaborately decorated, as if for the king and queen, but oh-so inviting nonetheless.
I was thankful for the sunshine that let me see so much of the city on foot. I got to walk around the gardens of the Royal Palace, which is something I didn't know I wanted to do! All the statues of former monarchs, the first bronze statue of a horse on its hind legs, the largest European capitol with over 3000 rooms?? Yes please! I also got to see the town's old square--where the royalty used to live--that's now filled with shops and restaurants. Additionally, I was able to walk by the Guinness-World-Record-holding oldest restaurant in the world: open continuously since 1725! Of course I went to some pretty incredible museums, but my favorite part was just wandering around the city with new friends. I was so fascinated by the lifestyle of the nation's capital. The vibe was refreshing, cultured, purposeful, and never too serious. It was fun to quite literally see a different side of Spain.
All in all, it was a whirlwind of a weekend trip. I got to experience pure Spanish culture--no Catalan in sight! I got to eat delectable foods, including famous chocolate with churros, "broken" eggs, tapas on tapas, sweet summer wine, and the best bread. I got to spend three days in a city I may never have the chance to see again! (Although, let's be real, I'm definitely going to have to come back to the Prado.)
I couldn't help my jaw from hanging open as I walked around the Museo del Prado in Madrid. The museum became more overwhelmingly beautiful as I entered each new gallery. Trailing behind my tour group, I tried to soak in every last inch we passed. I don't know what was most impressive: the expansive canvases, the sturdy frames, or the feat of hanging such massive masterpieces. It was like walking through a dream of the most stereotypically perfect art museum imaginable. The hallways were endless. The benches were centered. The statues were gleaming. The paintings were hung in precise intervals along the complementary-colored walls. Though I haven't been to the Louvre, I can only begin to describe the Museo del Prado as the Spanish Louvre.
The collection was enormous, covering hundreds of years, styles, and artists. I could have spent a week in that place and still not have seen everything. Even the stairwells featured priceless works, and only 60% of the collection was on display. It was truly mesmerizing. As I rapidly passed through the galleries with my tour, I only saw beauty and creativity. It was a dream in the sense that I couldn't believe I was there and I couldn't believe I was on an educational path to one day end up working in a place like that. I just cannot justifiably describe my amazement.
Besides being able to complete my homework on investigating the work of El Greco, my favorite part of the Prado Museum was not a painting or a gallery. I really appreciated two things. First off, some of the art displayed was salvaged from the interior walls of buildings. They were able to cut thin layers of the walls so that the art could be preserved, fitted to an identical space in the museum, and appreciated after the building was destroyed. Secondly, I loved the way I could see the fine brushstrokes of each painting. The illumination and the close proximity allowed me to see how these paintings were hand-crafted centuries ago. This made my heart especially happy to see because I will one day be able to see those brushstrokes much closer--under a microscope. I will be able to clean these relics so that future generations of inquisitive minds are able to visit the museum and see those brushstrokes, just as I did as a young study abroad student in Madrid one Saturday afternoon.
As the Museo del Prado was a regal and traditional art museum, the Museo Reina Sofia was every bit as much a modern art museum. Converted from a hospital to a museum in the 1980s, the structure was stark and completely white-walled. While not as welcoming, this setup was the perfect fit for the modern art collection it featured. The small, abrupt galleries were able to concentrate on one style at a time and provide documents and other supplementary materials pertaining to the artistic movement on display. Even without a guided highlight tour, as I received, one would be able to use the museum as a way to learn about artistic movements throughout the 20th century.
I was very please to see some Picasso and Dali in the Museo Reina Sofia because I am currently taking an art history course on those Spanish masters. My favorite work was the museum's crown jewel, The Guernica. I just learned about this work in my art history class and it was stunning to see in person. The piece has an entire room dedicated to it, where the walls are bare except for this massive black and white composition. Created by Picasso just before the Spanish civil war, it exudes gut wrenching emotion and expressive thought. I stood before this painting for a good five minutes just studying its every line. I was by far the most impressed by this piece. Although my jaw did not hang open as at Museo del Prado, I instead strolled through the galleries with pondering thoughts and quizzical expressions. Modern art just makes you think more. It's different. I like the challenge.
The Museo Reina Sofia was the complete opposite and perfect complement to the Museo del Prado. Together these Madrilenian museums hold so much art history and creative genius. I am thrilled I got the chance to visit them both; however, I only saw fractions of each collection, so I suppose I will have to come back to visit one day. Perhaps on a business trip???
Fresh from the Market
Between classes I was able to walk down the street to explore Barcelona's famous "Mercat de la Boqueria" (Butcher's Market). True to its name there were plenty of butcher stands under the large open-air pavilion. I saw every cut of meat imaginable, slimy silver fish, crabs trying to jump off their ice, sheep skin, and plenty of pig legs. Since I did not desire to purchase any of the above, I was more interested by the brilliant displays of fresh-cut fruit and colorful juices. They were so cheap compared to cafe prices. I bought a cup of watermelon for 1.5 € ($1.75)--and it was so tasty! I had to restrain myself from buying every fruit in sight, especially the dragon fruit, mango, and ruby-red strawberries. They had quite literally any fruit I could think of. I was also tempted by the bins of nuts, dried fruits, and chocolates by the kilogram. In addition, some of the stands were like restaurants offering tapas, pizza, burritos, and chicken strips. I was impressed by the sheer variety of items available! Who needs a grocery store when everything at the market is cheaper and fresher? You can bet I'll be back! Catch me at the fresh bread stand ;)
February
Hiking in Collserola
This weekend I finally got to wander in the great outdoors of Barcelona's bordering mountain range, the Serra de Collserola. It was drizzling rain, as it rarely does in the region, when we (myself and three other students) started our ascent under the leadership of two program staff. Once we made the jump from paved sidewalk to dirt trail, the rain started to give way to a cloudy blue sky above the trees. The first hour or two we went up and over the mountain. It was a steep, rocky climb--with multiple breaks--but my sweaty face finally made it to this amazing view of Barcelona.
It was actually harder going down the other side of the mountain. Our shortcut was so steep and very slippery thanks to all the rain. My knees were not very happy with me! At one point I had to get down and use my hands just so I wouldn't fall as far if I did slip. It was a physical and mental challenge for sure...but we made it! The rest of the trek was fairly flat through the natural park. It was muddy but I didn't mind trading clean shoes for some fresh air. I felt so refreshed just to be away from the city and among the trees. We walked for another hour or so and sat down to eat lunch just outside the town of Sant Cugat. From there we hopped on the train back to the city because we had already surpassed our 10,000-step goal for the day. About three hours from where we started, the sun was shining brightly and the weather had done a complete 180. It ended up being a beautiful day to explore the lush mountain landscape around Barcelona.
An Afternoon on Passeig de GrĂ cia
Often the best days start with no plan, so I'm thankful I didn't have any idea what my Saturday would entail when I woke up. Although my homestay is very cozy, I knew I wanted to take advantage of the city and explore Barcelona while I could. The biggest hurdle was where to begin? After breakfast I started flipping through my trusty guidebook (thanks Lonely Planet) and soon spotted something that seemed manageable for my afternoon--and much cheaper than the aquarium I had first considered. It was an architecture walking tour that caught my eye, featuring the most famous Modernist buildings from GaudĂ and his associates. So with my book and a plan I hopped on the metro to reach the first stop of the tour.
Although it was covered with scaffolding, I could still make out the whimsical details of Casa BatllĂł, one of GaudĂ's creations. I didn't brave the long lines and high prices to explore inside, but it was incredible just to stand on the street before the masterpiece. Next door I admired Casa Amatller and then walked down the street to the uniquely picturesque FundaciĂł Antoni TĂ pies. It was incredible to be able to stop and gaze up at these iconic buildings I had previously seen only from guidebooks and postcards. To avoid a noisy protest parade (I didn't stick around to find out what it was about), I took a detour to grab some food. Cerveseria Catalana hit the spot with their "montaditos," bite-sized appetizers on slices of bread.
Refueled I got back on the path only to be distracted by a book store, where I purchased two chemistry workbooks in Spanish. (TBD on how that turns out!) Souvenirs in hand, I marched on to the highlight of the tour, Casa MilĂ also known as La Pedrera. I was stunned to see how large the former apartment building was, taking full command of the corner it occupied. With time to spare before my timed ticket, I wandered on to the last two stops on the suggested walking tour: Palau del BarĂł Quadras and Casa de les Punxes. They were both stunningly beautiful structures that towered over the streets. Back at La Pedrera I was absolutely amazed at GaudĂ's innovative and whimsical architecture from the early 20th century. It was like something from a dream yet people actually lived in the building. I've never seen anything like it, but now I know where Dr. Seuss got some of his inspiration!
After a full day of architecture I ate and shopped some more amidst sprinkles from the darkening sky. I only stepped into a few shops I couldn't afford, and purchased practical mementos at the ones I could. Despite the light afternoon rain and walking in a few circles, it was a pleasant Saturday exploring the busy streets of Barcelona's famous Passeig de GrĂ cia.
Getting My Science Fix
Since I'm taking so many history and humanities courses this semester, it was only a matter of time before I ended up at a science museum. (Well, two actually.) I felt right at home with the hoards of kids running around and dragging their parents toward the cool stuff they'd discovered.
My first stop was the Museum of Natural Sciences of Barcelona, which was a very modern take on the natural history museum concept. It walked me through Earth's biological and geological record from the first fossils to the wide variety of animals, plants, fungi, and bacteria we know today. The hundreds of specimens were displayed in large glass cases--a far cry from the diorama technique used at many natural history museums. The building itself promoted quite the atmosphere of discovery with colorful projections, mysterious sounds, and random pockets of light from the unique windows. I felt free to just wander and explore, as one should in any good science museum.
Next I transported myself across the city to visit CosmoCaixa, an interactive science center more similar to some in the United States. Although the main hall was under renovation, I could still explore five swirling levels of smaller exhibits, covering everything from robots to Antarctica. My favorite part was the flooded forest which had Amazonian animals and vegetation growing inside a climate-controlled part of the museum. It was like a little zoo! I enjoyed my time meandering through this innovative space and discovering new information alongside the curious kids and families. It felt good to dig into some science in Spain!
Milan
My first independent travel adventure took me to Italy with four new friends. We didn't have anything planned but our flights and our accommodations before arriving, which was equally as terrifying as it was liberating. We found a way into the city, quickly figured out the metro, and checked into our hostel--a cheap place to stay with bunk beds and enough necessities for two pleasant nights. Our first meal was none other than authentic Italian pizza which was heaven for a true cheese-and-tomato-sauce lover like me. Full of delicious carbs we made our way to the "fashion district" of Milan which was apparently two seasons ahead of the rest of the world. The space exuded elegance and felt ingeniously trendy (and expensive).
Down the street, we could see spires of the Duomo Cathedral, Milan's masterpiece. It was breathtaking to see such extreme detail up close. After catching a glimpse of the famous church, we ditched the busy square for the canals of the Naviglio district at sunset and they did not disappoint. The orange and pinks of the sky reflected beautifully on the water and the moment felt quintessentially Italian. The small pastel flats lined up along the rocky streets with string musicians for background music was a scene from a storybook and one that I will treasure.
The rest of our time in Milan consisted of plenty of window shopping, some museums, so much eating (tiramisu, gelato, pasta, you name it), and lots of walking. We trekked all around the city to see Castle Sforzesco, the largest Starbucks in the world, and Napoleon's Arch of Peace. I was so amazed and thankful to be exploring a city so rich with life and beauty. It was surreal to slurp pasta in Italy, see art in Italy, and step foot in Italy.
Since I didn't get to peak inside the Duomo Cathedral in Milan, the Duomo Museum was the next best thing. It featured past statuary from inside and outside the cathedral and related art as well. Having the elements separate from the structure allowed me to focus on the details of the Duomo and see it in a new way. When I left the museum, I found myself pointing out everything from the statues I had seen to the fancy drain pipes. Probably the most impressive part of the museum was the scale model of the Duomo. It was helpful for seeing the layout and how much there truly was to the massive structure. For the small entrance fee, the museum contained a much larger collection than I anticipated!
The tour also included a visit to the church of San Gottardo. This small chapel was stunning with stained glass, high ceilings, and painted frescos. In contrast to the High Gothic style of the Duomo, it was beautiful to just soak in every detail and enjoy the atmosphere of the space.
The Duomo Museum offered unique insight into Milan's famous cathedral. It featured an overwhelming collection of exquisite artifacts in a dim light for guests to reflect upon as though they were in the cathedral. The overall space was encouraged to be silent--which I found unusual of a museum--but it did contribute to the reverent atmosphere. The museum was certainly a unique way to experience the religious history of Milan without stepping foot in the Duomo itself.
A huge fortress in the middle of Milan? I have questions, but I'm there! Popping up off the subway, the massive structure loomed over the square in a powerfully beautiful combination of fountains and brick. With preliminary pictures out of the way, we walked into the one of the many courtyards of the huge castle and found lots of visitors, a few statues, and a surprising multitude of cats. Beyond each large gate waited a new surprise, but the biggest surprise of all was inside the castle. A gigantic museum! It had galleries featuring everything from Egyptian treasures to musical instruments, furniture to weapons, and royal portraits to tombstones. I truly had no idea what to expect but my feet got tired before I could see it all. However, I did get to see enough of it to know what an impressive collection and historic structure the institution has in its possession.
From a future conservator's perspective, the most intriguing part was the restoration going on inside the galleries. Multiple works were being worked on in the same space where visitors were mulling around. It was a fascinating take on bringing the necessities of museum work out from behind the curtain. Personally, I loved that I got to see such preservation and protection taking place right before my eyes!
Valentine's Day for One
"El DĂa de San ValentĂn" isn't really a holiday in Spain. Actually it's only celebrated as a knock-off of the U.S. version. Yes, some stores have promotions on chocolate and flowers, it may be a little harder to book a table for two, and already-prominent P.D.A. reaches its peak, but that's it. The 14th of February is not very publicized or even recognized among locals as anything other than a day on the calendar.
Perhaps it was because of this cultural ambivalence to the day of love or because I was thousands of miles away from the people I care about, but I used the day to appreciate myself. I took advantage of McDonald's 2 for €3 McFlurries and savored them both. I painted my nails. I enjoyed a workout. And I took the opportunity to tell the important people in my life how much I love them. Instead of making it a day to wish for love or subscribe to the commercialism, I made it a day to love what I already had: an amazing experience in Spain and a huge support system back home, loving me from across the ocean.
One of the tourist staples of Barcelona, Park GĂĽell is a modernist's playground designed by Antoni GaudĂ. At first look, I was amazed by the skillful marriage of architecture and nature. It oozed the GaudĂ flair that lives all over Barcelona yet the droopy trees and chirping birds transported me to a tropical world far away from the city. The paradise seemed to stretch on forever in winding dirt paths and staircases.
Detracting from such natural and artistic beauty were the swarms of people darting from one photogenic background to the next. Though I too waited in line for that Insta-worthy shot, I realized there was so much more to explore than the glazed mosaic benches toward which everyone flocked. I am hoping to go back with a smaller group to simply be able to walk around, climb all the staircases, and focus on enjoying the view instead of capturing it on camera. Much of the park was also under construction during my visit, which is just another reason I'll have to return when it's not peak visiting hours and I am able to explore more of the vastly beautiful space for myself.
In the end my semi-guided visit to Park GĂĽell was an adventure and a chance to see what the hype was all about. While I found the paid entrance area to be overrated and partially closed, I think the rest of the park is severely underrated. I'm already planning my next visit! (Seriously, I got a map.)
Getting Political
In case you haven't been following world news lately, Barcelona is currently in the middle of a hot political situation. The city is the capital of Catalonia, one of the seventeen autonomous communities in Spain (like states). In October 2017, Catalonia voted to secede from Spain and become its own independent country; however, Spain said this vote was unconstitutional. Now the twelve leaders who supposedly orchestrated this illegal referendum are facing trial after already being held in jail for over a year. While many Catalans are still pushing for independence from Spain, more are upset over this unjust treatment of the political prisoners. Today classes were canceled as Barcelonins took to the streets in a city-wide strike to protest the unfair trial of their former leaders and the overbearing Spanish government. Much much more is going on in Madrid between political parties and the Prime Minister at the moment, but I'll spare you the details since all I know is what I've gleaned from the Spanish nightly news.
My largest takeaway from this situation is that I'm happy I'm here to witness it. As resident of the capital of an independentist state, I've gained an entirely new perspective on the movement and Spanish politics--a perspective that I'm sure would be very different if I were studying in Madrid. I am glad I'm here to understand the conflict first-hand, because I don't think I would be paying much attention to it otherwise. Yes I have formed a personal belief on the situation--an informed belief and a belief that surprises even myself--but it's a strong view that I would not have held as a spectator across the ocean. The political events of this semester will go down forever in Spanish history. I feel fortunate to be witnessing the situation unfold, and I have no doubt that this time in Spain will shape my political perspective on future matters worldwide.
Since the moment I decided to study abroad, I learned you couldn't say "Barcelona" without also mentioning "La Sagrada Familia." This yet-unfinished basilica was the most dedicated project of Antoni GaudĂ, who contributed to the city in so many ways, but most notably with this towering wonder. I had heard it was beautiful and amazing and stunning. I had seen it on every brochure and tourist website and souvenir t-shirt. But I didn't understand its allure until I stepped inside.
Do not be fooled. This is a church. It has stained glass windows, an altar, and many images of Jesus and the saints. It uses the traditional cross-shaped layout of gothic cathedrals with a nave, transepts, apse, and ambulatory. (Woah welcome to art history class...) It feels like a church, and yet it is so much more than that. It is a celebration of creativity and originality. It takes staples of the traditional church and elevates them. (Quite literally, the building will be the tallest in Barcelona.) The space is lively and welcoming, yet invites deep reflection and careful pondering of the details. Truly it is an indescribable place, unlike anything else in the world. Where else can you feel like you're at the gates of heaven and inside a kaleidoscope all at once?
The statue work on the outside of the basilica is also stunning and very unique. GaudĂ and his succeeding architects use modernist techniques to tell a story on each facade. GaudĂ's work--where you enter the church--is the nativity scene, full of life and tiny details swirling around the baby Jesus. Where you exit the style is much different, featuring geometric statues that tell of Jesus's death from the Last Supper to the Crucifixion. Though the facades are distinct in both subject matter and style, they contribute to the eclectic nature of the building as a whole. The basilica bears the marks of seven head architects over 137 years. I believe this collective effort is what makes the church so special. Throughout the construction process, La Sagrada Familia has withstood the test of time and transition to keep moving forward and always point to God. There is a lot to be said about this sentiment, but the experience of visiting says it best. So I'll save my words and just encourage you to come see for yourself.
A Morning at the Labyrinth Park
I did even not know this beautiful park existed in Barcelona until some friends (thanks Eva and Mary) suggested it for a sunny Saturday morning adventure. We had a wonderful time simply wandering around the gorgeous grounds of this former private residence. As the largest and oldest garden in the city, it was like something straight out of a fairy tale! The dusty narrow paths were lined with shrubs and flowers. The classical statuary was housed under columned domes. The literal labyrinth took us longer to figure out than we are willing to admit!
Every step led us to a new discovery: a large pool, a rocky waterfall, a romantic fountain, a headless statue... around each corner was a stunning classical treasure. The space transported me to a different world; I was no longer surrounded by the hustle bustle of Barcelona but instead smelling flowers and singing with the birds in a dreamland. The park brought to life something I had previously only see in storybooks and movie screens. We strolled for an hour or two and didn't even make it to every corner of the garden. A fascinating expanse of trees, flowers, hedges, statues, and fresh air, this place is a hidden treasure of Barcelona--and my new happy place.
Surviving Midterms Abroad
Believe it or not, I actually have to study while I'm abroad. I'm taking five classes which meant five midterms in three weeks. I'm happy to share that I did survive, but it was definitely an unexpected challenge. While I love my classes, they include a lot of material and are taught in a unique style, so it was hard to anticipate how the first exams would go. Luckily the professors were very transparent about their expectations and I felt prepared when the time came. However, it was a huge struggle to concentrate on studying in this dynamic city! I fought an internal battle between wanting to make the most of my time here but also wanting to maintain a strong G.P.A. The sunshine was so enticing that I compromised by studying outside (hello tan lines!) and sipping fresh orange juice at a local cafe while I sifted through by notes. My school was also very supportive, providing free massages and pizza. (I've never seen such a swarm of college students.) The high concentration of exams made me realize the semester was definitely underway--as was my time in Barcelona. Studying abroad is a huge balancing act between learning and living life. I'm still working through how to manage everything I want and need to do, but I'm well on my way to feeling truly settled into life in this amazing place.
Advocating for My Education
Today I volunteered to work individually on two group projects for my art history course. On one level, I did it because I like control; however, I also knew I could make the projects more personalized if I worked on them independently. One of the projects was curating a hypothetical art gallery, a very practical task that I may need do as part of my future career. Because the project had this tight connection to my career path, I wanted to take it seriously and get the most out of it to be best prepared for my future in museums. The second project was a term paper with the goal of basically discussing something we had already covered in class. Because the assignment was not as interesting to me and very much geared toward the group dynamic, I proposed a completely new topic to my professor. I explained to him how I wanted to become a conservator and how conservation practices were sometimes controversial due to the subjective nature of art. Luckily, he gave me the green light to write about that and whatever else I thought would pertain to the course and my future. No rubric, just a word count target, a preferred style of formatting, a due date, and high expectations. Just write a lot and well. What more could I ask for than to write a paper about a hot topic in my future career field with no guidelines?
I was even more thrilled when I started researching the material. I found so much academic information about conservation treatments and practices. I even discovered many scientific takes on the topic, which was encouraging for a science major, like myself, entering this often art-dominated field! The paper was not easy by any means--it took countless hours of researching, note-taking, formatting, and analyzing--but I was passionate about the subject matter, which made it feel less like an assignment and more like preparation to become a conservator. I am so grateful to have a professor who was willing to invest in my future to the point of letting me personalize my learning.
March
Fifteen Years Later
If you would have told me as a five-year-old that a decade and a half later I'd be showing my pre-k friend around Barcelona, Spain, I probably wouldn't have understood what you were trying to say. But the point is, it happened. My friend since 2003 and I are studying abroad this semester just 217 miles apart from each other. That's closer than we usually go to school in the U.S.!
We had ourselves a weekend in Barcelona to celebrate this miraculous occurrence. I was so pumped to be able to show someone around the city I had gotten to know over the past two months. I was a proud personal tour guide. We walked so much our feet hated us, but we sat and ate plenty too. Our craziest meal was courtesy of a weekend lunch deal. Although I tried my best to communicate with the Spanish waiter, I was surprised when he brought four appetizer and a whole bottle of wine for the two of us to share. Moreover, three of the four appetizers were miles out of my comfort zone. Salad: great. Shrimp: ended up being the best. Fried little fish: how do I eat this? Giant calamari: my worst nightmare. We did some damage on the appetizers, but that hindered our progress when it came to eating our individual paellas that came out as the main course. It was a struggle but totally a laughing matter. We were there for three hours. It was a feat of a feast and an unforgettably hilarious and bizarre experience. I wouldn't have wanted to take it on with anyone else!
We did more normal things throughout the weekend, too, including museums, parks, and La Sagrada Familia. (We also got on the wrong train for the first time my entire semester.) My favorite adventure was sitting on Barcelona's famous bunkers, watching the sunset, and talking about everything that has happened in our lives since kindergarten. What an incredibly magical moment. I'm so thankful to have a forever friend that would travel all the way from France to come experience Barcelona with a pseudo-local like myself. Kick you girl! (Stay tuned for my expedition in France!)
Becoming a Seafood Person
I boldly ordered fish at a restaurant for lunch today and it was served with the head still attached, aka very fresh. As a six-year-old, I might have screamed. (I had a traumatic fishing experience.) You see, before coming to Barcelona, I practically refused to eat anything that lived in water. But when my host mom asked me if there was anything I didn't like to eat, I wasn't going to tell her that. So I began to eat seafood in Barcelona mostly out of necessity. I tried mussels, shrimp, octopus, and many different kinds of fish. After visiting the market, I realized my choices were justified in a region with such access to fresh fish. Why not take advantage of it? If I was going to like seafood anywhere, it was going to be less than a mile inland from the Mediterranean Sea.
Over the first month of my experience, little by little I said yes to seafood, and I ended up liking it more and more. I got cravings for seafood paella. I would choose the squid-ink paella (arroz negro) over chicken. Oddly enough, the only seafood I ended up still NOT liking was squid. But like anything I encountered on my plate in Europe, I would try it and I would tolerate it. By the end of the semester, I even enjoyed the fishiest of dishes. It was a miracle. I really could not believe that I had done such a 180 from despising seafood to ordering it, but I told myself I was embracing the local culture. To be determined if I continue to embrace the local pond fish culture back home.
Chef for a Day
A day trip to walk on castle walls and learn how to make paella? Count me in! On a Friday morning, myself and four other study abroad students took a short bus ride to the village of Hostalric, north of Barcelona. We started the excursion at a "main street" cafe where we met our cute tour guide and caffeinated up for the day. She walked us through the medieval gate of the city, led us through a cave-like passage, and unlocked the stairs to a military tower. The old structures offered absolutely sweeping views of the surrounding mountainous areas. I could even pick out a few more castles on the hills nearby. It was surreal to literally walk on the walls surrounding the city from tower to tower above the houses.
We ended our historic journey at a state-of-the-art instructional kitchen with two walls of windows that allowed us to keep an eye on all the stone walls we had just toured. A German chef met us at the kitchen to coach us along as we made our lunch: paella! This traditional Spanish rice dish has become a new favorite of mine since living in Barcelona. We started chopping vegetables to sauté for the base of the fish stock that would come in at the end of the process. These leeks, carrots, celery, and onions were combined with a random assortment of ocean life and boiling water, salted heavily, and then literally place on the back burner. Next we added some cooked some shrimp in our sizzling paella pans and got some mussels going as well--two more elements to be added at the end.
Then things really got cooking. We added chicken, rabbit, sausage, and cuttlefish to start browning in the hot pan, along with onion and red bell pepper. Once that was all coming along nicely, we added tomato sauce, white wine, and started the simmering process. Later we eyeballed some the fish stock and finally stirred in the rice. Then it was time to wait. We stirred and shook and put the lid on to let the rice absorb all the yummy tomato-ey liquid.
After what seemed like an eternity we cranked up the heat on our nearly finished paella to get the perfect crust on the edge of the pan: my favorite part! We all sat at the table and started with salad until our paella was ready to dig into. The first bite was definitely worth the wait. It was not the most delicious paella I've had, but it was the first one I made, so that made it the best in my book.
The view. The food. The experience. It was all unbelievable. I felt so lucky to learn from a professional how to make this staple Spanish dish. It was definitely a process and a matter of intuition, in adding more liquid for example. I can't promise I'll be able to recreate it to Spanish standards, but practice makes prefect, right?
The City as an Academic Aid
In choosing a class about the history of Barcelona as a city, I expected (per the syllabus) to learn about the physical elements of the city and how they connected to Spanish historical events. I did not expect to get personalized walking tours from my very knowledgeable professor where I could see these sites up close. However, that was a regular occurrence in my class, Barcelona: The Cosmopolitan City. I was fascinated to learn about the detailed events that has literally shaped the city into it what it is today. I read about the founding of the city in 12 B.C. and then literally walked the Roman streets. I heard about the medieval walls and saw parts of where they are still standing. I learned about the siege of the city in 1714 and then walked on the ground that was the military fortress. It was truly incredible to be living such history out in my daily life and learning about it in the classroom each week too.
Today we explored sites important during the Spanish Civil War, which I found more important than any other time period because the Spanish have a pact of forgetting about the war. There are no museums or monuments dedicated to that conflict and the many tragedies and struggles. There is silence. The remaining structures from that time that we saw on our walk today are all that is left to tell the story.
Studying abroad opened my eyes to how important the city itself is as a living archive of stories from the past. People move and die but cities stand true and hold treasures in their walls of times gone by. Let us not forget all that we can learn from our cities.
April
My Language Query
Before I arrived in Barcelona, I was told it was a very American city, everyone spoke English. Imagine my surprise when I arrive to a host mom who speaks absolutely no English and my Spanish is a little rusty. In that moment of culture shock, I was not prepared to be communicated in a language besides my native one.
After a few weeks in the city and taking Spanish class, I was already feeling more confident in my Spanish. Once I could order at a restaurant, I felt invincible. The query came when I was trying my best to communicate in Spanish and all I got was English in response. They made it too easy to revery to my first language. While I felt guilty about this, I soon discovered that English was the common language spoken between natives and travelers, not just Americans. English is the second language of many countries and so it is the common ground between Spanish and Swedish for example. I was just lucky enough to have that second language bond be my first language.
Even though English was prominent, especially in touristy places. I decided to always begin in Spanish, no matter how terrible it was. I could usually get my point across well enough and if they actually responded in Spanish I felt like a superstar. I wasn't able to order fully in Spanish at Starbucks until today, but I felt like that was the biggest accomplishment.
Overall I was amazed at how much my Spanish speaking confidence improved over my four months abroad. Sitting in the airport to fly home I passively understood the Spanish announcements and signs. I still don't think I can truly comprehend how surprisingly well I know Spanish. Compared to native-speakers, it's pitiful, but compared to many other U.S. citizens, I feel pretty darn smart.