Back from the Ruggens
© C P Lewis

1. Bredasdorp to Klipdale is a sinuous stretch with tight reverse curves and there is a rise of 300ft between the Kars River crossing at Napier and Klipdale. This was 2453 cl 19C on 262-up, 10:20 off Bredasdorp in July 1975.

2. A pair of 19Cs leaving Klipdale with the 10:20 Bredasdorp-Caledon goods in August 1975.

If proof were needed that the line to Protem was originally intended to be an alternative route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth look no further than the Bredasdorp branch coming in from the right here, forming a backwards junction with the "main" line to Protem. In order to avoid laborious shunting and turning of locomotives the wily SAR built a turning balloon at the east end of Klipdale station (see extract from the 1:50000 topographical map below). A bit of an Oirish solution but it worked.

A pity that the proposed link with Swellendam was never constructed. It would have reduced the distance by only 20 miles but would have included some magnificent scenery. Probably the most intimidating obstacle in the way of the extension was the Breede River at Swellendam.

2a. Extract from RSA topographical map 3419BD of 1997.

3. Rietpoel has several huge silos and was a major gatherer of the Ruggens harvests, so it justified a turning triangle for grain workings between here and Caledon. The driver of 2463 cl 19C on 262-up from Bredasdorp was receiving orders from the guard of 265-down which has just been crossed. July 1975. Note the 1950s Chevy bakkie on the left.

4. 262-up was handy for John, he lives not too far away in Somerset West. This was a Saturday morning working in August 1975 - always a good bet for a doubleheader as operating staff and footplate personnel collaborated to maximise their overtime. This train usually had a high proportion of ES trucks with bagged wheat from the mill at Bredasdorp.

5. More ES trucks from the Bredasdorp mill, between Rietpoel and Jongensklip in July 1975 with Babilonstoring wreathed in clouds.

6. A nice side-on view of 2437 cl 19C on 262-up entering Krige. Harvesting had already begun in October 1975.

7. Leaving Drayton with the deceptively tall Swartberg of Caledon dominating the background. At 3,570ft the highest peak is just taller than Table Mountain.

8. On a Saturday in July 1975, 262-up had only two miles to go to Caledon where her crew, and 2478 cl 19C, would sign off for the weekend.

9. No 1442 class 1B on the Caledon shunt in July 1970. I didn't realise it at the time, and I don't think John did either, but a class 1 at Caledon was exceedingly rare. I have trawled Les's detailed locomotive allocation lists from 1950 to 1973 and can find only one record of them being sent there - for about eight months from late 1969.

10. 4029 cl GEA at the Caledon "coal stage" - as you can see, a state-of-the-art affair with gravity feed, albeit from hand-operated cocopans on a pushbahn.

When they arrived in RSA c 1972, those inveterate track bashers Geoff Hall and Peter Odell had two main objectives: to ride the maximum mileage they could behind steam on SAR metals and to qualify as drivers. They achieved both with much trauma and sacrifice, not least because they were often treated as spies by paranoid railway policemen.

11. Caledon: 4040 cl GEA about to back onto 244-up tranships and 2438 cl 19C just arrived from Bredasdorp with 262-up, Dec 1972.

Note the piles of cast-iron brakeblocks - the Caledon branch was a huge consumer of these essential items. The main workshops, i.e. Salt River, Uitenhage, E London, Bloemfontein, Koedoespoort and Pietermaritzburg all had foundries that cast brakeblocks by the thousands, no, make that millions. Then, around the mid seventies, yet another doctor from the illustrious Barnard clan invented a composition brake block based upon the material used in ordinary motor car brake shoes (this Dr Barnard was a mechanical engineer).

Composition blocks cost about one tenth of cast-iron blocks and did not need a foundry. Within a few years cast-iron brakeblocks had disappeared altogether. There were some side effects. Because they could not conduct the heat away, the composition blocks generated much more heat, so much so that wheels with tyres could have the tyres expand and come loose. A more noticeable effect was that track structures lost that characteristic reddish-brown colour caused by the minute particles of iron that rubbed off onto the ballast.

12. 244-up tranships departing from Caledon in July 1975. Apart from the one facebrick mess-and-ablution monstrosity for shunters (just behind the bunker of the GEA), the station and surrounds were quite attractive in those days, especially the station building itself which was built in 1915. Today this view is overwhelmed by enormous grain silos.

13. Crossing the Swart River just east of Mission, 264-up, the 07:45 Caledon-Cape Town goods with 4029 cl GEA opening up for the Langhoogte bank. That gradient post isn't lying. From here Langhoogte bank begins and the next five miles are practically an unbroken slog up the 1-in-40 to the summit at De Vlei.

14. 264-up leaving the siding at Mission in July 1975.

In 1737 the Moravian church established a mission station at the foot of a great kloof in the Riviersonderend mountains. They called it Genadendal (= Valley of Grace) which was an advance on its previous name "Baviaanskloof". Because of the rugged terrain, the best the surveyors could do when setting out the railway was to provide a station 22 miles away, which they optimistically called "Mission". Nonetheless it served Genadendal for nearly 80 years, at first by ox-cart and later by the Road Motor Service until some time in the mid eighties SATS decided they didn't want the business anymore.

15. Genadendal, the Moravian mission station, as it was in 1849 from a painting by George French. The ruggedness of the mountains and the intimidating kloof are not exaggerated and give a good idea why the railway never reached here.

The scene is pretty much as I remember it on a camping trip with my parents 100 years later: the main street was unmade, an avenue through thatched cottages although the odd sheet of corrugated iron had begun to creep in. What it looks like today I dunno but the main drag is probably still unmetalled. One of the less attractive changes to traditional Cape cottages in the last fifty years is that corrugated iron has taken over from Albertinia reed almost universally as the preferred roofing material. Nevertheless, I'm pretty sure the villagers haven't yet succumbed to the 21st century pizza delivery culture.

16. 264-up with its GEA really wound up on Langhoogte in July 1975. For enthusiasts this was easily the best train out of Caledon.

17. We're still with 264-up on Langhoogte on a frosty morning in July 1975.

18. The regular afternoon departure from Caledon was the 16.45 Cape Town goods, 244-up, seen here with its GEA toiling away up Langhoogte.

19. 264-up in July 1975 again. This was only two days after the stormy scene depicted in photo 22 of Part 9 but already the snow below 4,000ft has melted. That's Blokkop, at 5,400ft dominating the horizon.

20. The same train about half a mile further up the bank. It was easy to chase these trains, they crawled uphill at about 10 to an optimistic 15 mph.

21. In stark contrast, the same location as the previous photo in summer, this was 264-up in December 1973.

22. By 1975 SAR's Garratts were all huff and very little puff. After the announcement of the steam elimination program in 1971 manufacturing of spares in SAR's workshops was stopped for earmarked classes, including the GEAs, and standards of maintenance went into free fall. This was further aggravated by the railway-wide knowledge that they would soon be replaced by diesels.

There was no sun on the line yet as I nervously waited for 264-up at dawn on an exceptionally clear frosty morning in July 1975. The track was still entirely in shade but the evidence of a train was huge - a veritable geyser accompanied by much wheezing around the corner on the right. Eventually she hove into view, leaking from every joint. How there was enough steam left to move even this light train I dunno. Then miraculously, as the engine reached the straight the sun reached the rails and the camouflage moved to the other side, instantly outlining the GEA's decrepit profile against the dark hills behind.

23. 244-up wending its way up Langhoogte in July 1975. As previously noted: between Elgin and Caledon there is hardly any straight track except in a coupla stations. The equivalent gradient around those 5-chain reversed curves is 1-in-33.

24. Now that I look at these photos I realise that 244-up, the late afternoon departure from Caledon, was also a nice train to photograph.

25. We're getting close to the summit now. That's the cleft of Houwhoek Pass in the middle background and Bot River, to where 244-up soon will be descending, is deep down in the dark hollow between the mountain and the train.

26. Les will probably kill me for this but I couldn't resist this midsummer shot by Eugene of modern motive power on Langhoogte. Just look, no fuss, no bother, no clouds of wasted steam, just shear brute tractive effort. Pity there's only grain traffic now.

27. With a final gasp, a GEA drags its lightly-loaded 264-up into De Vlei, summit of the Langhoogte, in the winter of '75.

28. After De Vlei it's nearly all downhill to the Bot River bridge - except for this horseshoe about halfway which called for a bit of steam to coax up trains over a short hump. This was 4033 cl GEA on 264-up in July 1975.

29. Lowest point between De Vlei and Elgin was the Bot River bridge. From here 4009 cl GEA will lift her train more than 900 feet in 9 miles through Houwhoek Pass. April 1974.

30. Scarcely a train's length off the Bot River bridge we are on 1-in-40 and that GEA is already busting a poepstring tugging 264-up around the checkrailed 5-chain reverse curves. Believe it or not the tiny bridge spans the Houwhoek River, who would think that this insignificant spruit could carve the mighty gorge which trains have to negotiate in the pass.

31. Only a furlong to go to Bot River's facing points and a much needed drink, fireclean and lube-job for 4032 cl GEA before tackling Houwhoek Pass with 244-up. December 1975.

This picture is a painful reminder of how much passed me by in decadent youth. I keep imagining how nice a doubleheaded Caledon passenger must have looked working its way up the far side of the river on the embankment in the background.

32. In steam days many outstanding Loco Foremen came up through the ranks, not least among them being the late Alec Watson who played a major role in making the 25NCs the most economical motive power (in total cost/ton.km) SAR ever had. Before his promotion to De Aar he was Assistant LF at Paarden Eiland and prior to that, Senior Chargehand Fitter at Bethlehem. At all these depots he excelled himself and put his stamp on their engines, which became renowned countrywide for reliability. After the cessation of the manufacturing of spares for most classes he became particularly resourceful and could keep a machine on the road by sheer improvisation.

Here is 14CRB 1898 at Bot River in April 1975, clearly after SSI overhaul at Paarden Eiland. The thoroughness of the marking of the wheels and motion bears the stamp of Watson. 14CRBs tended to work beyond Elgin only during traffic peaks because they were allowed 155 tons less than a Garratt over this section.

33. Because of the long banks on either side, Bot River was the servicing point for all down and up trains between Elgin and Caledon. This was 4029 cl GEA on 264-up in July 1975.

34. In addition to its importance as an engine servicing station, Bot River was also a major freight distribution hub for Road Motor Services to Villiersdorp, Hermanus, Stanford and Gansbaai. On the left an RMS International horse is backing onto its trailer loaded with goods for the coastal villages while 4011 cl GEA gets ready for Houwhoek Pass.

35. This overall view perhaps conveys the bustle of the place in 1975. Today, nothing moves at Bot River station apart from the occasional grain working which, of course doesn't even need to stop here. The untidy piles of sleepers were left by the relaying gang busy preparing the track for the diesels.

36. With a decent load, 4011 was straining to get 264-up out of Bot River while the RMS made a simultaneous departure with its load of freight for the coastal towns. July 1975.

37. After Bot River we leave the Ruggens behind and join the mountains. They'll be with us all the way to Sir Lowry's Pass. In December 1968 this GEA crept into Houwhoek Pass undetected except by one lonely photographer.

38. We've left the Ruggens, with the Klein Swartberg of Caledon behind them. The fireman of this GEA has a solid hour of work ahead keeping that 55 sq ft grate hot before he can rest on his shovel for a while. As maintenance standards deteriorated less than one lump of coal in twenty would go towards moving the train (although it has to be said against my favourite motive power, that even on a good day only one lump in every fifteen or so kept the trains rolling).

39. A higher view of the entrance into Houwhoek Pass, with the train at the same spot as in the previous photo. The Ruggens, with a veld fire starting (not near the railway!) and the Klein Swartberg of Caledon are in the background while the three levels of track which 264-up with 4011 cl GEA has just negotiated are clearly visible. This is the same train featured in photos 34 and 36.

40. Another high-up view that gives an idea of the layout of the place. Note old Thomas Bain's road running parallel with the railway. Although it doesn't look like it the photo was taken from terra firma.

41. A favourite location, this curve featured in our chapter on the Caledon passenger train. September 1973.

42. Approaching the lower of the two bridges in the Houwhoek River gorge, August 1975.

43. The Australian wattle is actually a very attractive tree, especially when it's in bloom. If only it weren't so damn prolific - like bunnies in the outback. No apologies for including the standard Houwhoek Pass shot of 264-up, one of hundreds taken by fans over the years.

44. A block load of Ruggens wheat approaching the upper Houwhoek Pass bridge in March 1971.

45. The same train that appears in photos 34,36 and 39 coming across the upper bridge in July 1975.

46. Only in summer was it possible to photograph 244 up in Houwhoek Pass. I think resident gricer John was probably the only one who achieved this - several times in fact - but it meant an hour's hard driving after work in Stellenbosch to get here in time.

47. Here's that train again: 4011 cl GEA on 264-up. That makes it five times between Bot River and Houwhoek. Each one is different so I hope I may be forgiven. This one shows how the railway follows the Houwhoek River, which is completely clogged with wattle. The ugly scars of the roadworks for doubling the N2 over the road pass are visible in the background.

48. Entering Houwhoek in July 1975. The level crossing is for the road connecting Houwhoek Inn to the N2 and the oaks are hibernating for the winter.

49. Five years earlier and 4032 cl GEA is drifting to a stop with 264-up preparatory to crossing 241-down, August 1970. Note the 4-wheeled van parked in the goods siding. This was how Houwhoek Inn's groceries and booze were delivered once/week for almost 80 years until SATS unilaterally decided to discontinue the service c 1984.

50. In this wonderful photo by Ravenscroft, taken c 1905, you can clearly see the Houwhoek Inn and the CGR's 4-wheeled van that had brought its supplies from Cape Town.

51. More than 100 years later and much more overgrown, Eugene found the same spot to record this block grain working coming up the still picturesque Houwhoek valley with three class 35s.

52. Around the same curve where the down Caledon passenger derailed in 1957 (see part 7), 4009 cl GEA was working hard to bring her tonnage up the final stages of the climb to the Bot/Palmiet watershed in April 1974.

53. There is a bit of a dip on this curve between Groenrug and Patryslaagte and after that we drop down to the Palmiet river at Elgin which forms the end of this chapter. Hidden by the smoke is Mount Lebanon, referred to on the outbound run.

54. This photo is included only to show a beautiful location and tell a story against myself. I discovered the spot during a recce in between trains in the 1975 fruit season. It needed quite a bit of gardening but I resolved to come back in July in the hopes of snow on the Hottentots Holland in the background. Two days after the good fall depicted in photo 22 of Part 9 the weather cleared completely and those mountains were white to below the horizon of firs in the middle distance. I completed the gardening with the first sounds of 241 down's engine opening up for the short rise into Groenrug and thought there was sufficient time to make it back to the Combi and up the ladder. There wasn't. Next day the weather was foul and the mountains remained covered in cloud for the rest of my leave. The only photo I eventually got of a down train here is the black and white No 3 in Part 9.

So....... over to youse, Pete and Eugene! Even diesels would look good here!!

55. The fireman of 270-up, 12:45 off Caledon, has already been on the road for four hours, and still has another 30 minutes of toil ahead to the summit at Steenbras. After that it's a breeze all the way to Cape Town.

56. Towards the end of Garratt working into the Overberg the GEAs began to look decidedly tatty, the erstwhile "Renoster" being no exception. This was a late-running 250-up (02:15 off Caledon) at Elgin in December 1975.

That concludes our coverage of the Caledon line and this chapter of Soul of A Railway. For those who are still with us I congratulate you and hope you will stay with us as we head to Les and Peter's territory for a while - the Transvaal. BUT, as the ancient mariner said, before you go......

Last week we finished with a youthful Victor Hand on Boesmanshoek Pass in 1970. Quite a number of youse got both the subject and the location right. Thanks to Bill Botkin we are able to show you that Victor is now shooting in 3D! That's Bill's wife Kate on the right and, yes Bill, I know you've dated this photo 1986 but old habits die hard so I suspect he is probably still using two Speed Graphics. Bill tells us the location was Crozier Canyon, Arizona.

But I promised to bring details of Victor's new masterpiece:

Having spent several exhilarating hours buried in this book here is what I wrote:

Thanks guys. See youse again soon, I hope before too long.