Oseberg 178 Chest

Sven and the Art of Chest Making

Chest making - Viking, based on Oseberg 178.

Chest making tips and hints.

Oseberg chest (178) - The plans. Note: these can be scaled up or down to fit the timber you have. Good Luck.

Oseberg chest (178) - The plans. Note: these can be scaled up or down to fit the timber you have. Good Luck.

Oseberg chest (178) - The insert for the side planks are cut while held in the vice, be aware of the slope of the bottom of the insert.
Oseberg chest (178) - the lines are drawn for the cuts with a tennon saw.

Oseberg chest (178) - The insert for the side planks are cut while held in the vice, be aware of the slope of the bottom of the insert.

Oseberg chest (178) - the lines are drawn for the cuts with a tennon saw.

Oseberg chest (178) - the cuts are made at the 10 degree angle.
Oseberg chest (178) - the cuts are made at the 10 degree angle. Close up. The slot is then chiselled out.

Oseberg chest (178) - the cuts are made at the 10 degree angle.

Oseberg chest (178) - the cuts are made at the 10 degree angle. Close up. The slot is then chiselled out.

Oseberg chest (178) - Chisel out the slot for the end of the base with chisel and mallet. Don't go all the way to the end, it will cause the timber to split.
Oseberg chest (178) - Chisel out the other end of the slot for the end of the base.

Oseberg chest (178) - Chisel out the slot for the end of the base with chisel and mallet. Don't go all the way to the end, it will cause the timber to split.

Oseberg chest (178) - Chisel out the other end of the slot for the end of the base.

Oseberg chest (178) - Holes are drilled in the end from the outside for the tennon slot, then cut out using a coping saw. A rasp and file are used to clean up the slot.
Oseberg chest (178) - The tennon of the base are cut while held in the vice, then the base is ready for fitting the sides.

Oseberg chest (178) - Holes are drilled in the end from the outside for the tennon slot, then cut out using a coping saw. A rasp and file are used to clean up the slot.

Oseberg chest (178) - The tennon of the base are cut while held in the vice, then the base is ready for fitting the sides.

Oseberg chest (178) - The tennon of the base held in the vice, with one of the ends in place. The fit should be as snug as possible, avoid force the join.
Oseberg chest (178) - the ends attached to the base.

Oseberg chest (178) - The tennon of the base held in the vice, with one of the ends in place. The fit should be as snug as possible, avoid force the join.

Oseberg chest (178) - the ends attached to the base.

Oseberg chest (178) - one of the ends attached to the base showing detail of the join.
Oseberg chest (178) - laying the base and ends on the first side plank for marking.

Oseberg chest (178) - one of the ends attached to the base showing detail of the join

Oseberg chest (178) - laying the base and ends on the first side plank for marking.

Oseberg chest (178) - laying the base and ends on the first side plank for marking.
Oseberg chest (178) - the side plank is marked. There is some play in the end joins. The iIdeal deflection is 10 degrees but each end is different and they need to be made the same.

Oseberg chest (178) - laying the base and ends on the first side plank for marking.

Oseberg chest (178) - the side plank is marked. There is some play in the end joins. The ideal deflection is 10 degrees but each end is different and they need to be made the same.

Oseberg chest (178) - the side plank, use of a ruler and protractor come in handy.
Oseberg chest (178) - The base and the side plank. Mark the pieces so they don't get mixed up and end up not fitting.

Oseberg chest (178) - the side plank, use of a ruler and protractor come in handy.

Oseberg chest (178) - The base and the side plank. Mark the pieces so they don't get mixed up and end up not fitting.

Oseberg chest (178) - Marking for nails, corner join.
Oseberg chest (178) - Glue joins and nail (scew).

Oseberg chest (178) - Marking for nails, corner join.

Oseberg chest (178) - Glue joins and nail (scew).

Oseberg chest (178) - Slash clamps are a godsend to help the joins set properly. Remember to protect the chest from the pressure of the clamps.
Oseberg chest (178) - The other side plank is attached

Oseberg chest (178) - Slash clamps are a godsend to help the joins set properly. Remember to protect the chest from the pressure of the clamps.

Oseberg chest (178) - The other side plank is attached

Oseberg chest (178) - The ends of the lid are cut on the 10 degree angle to match the angle of the sides.
Oseberg chest (178) - Make sure the lid fits.

Oseberg chest (178) - The ends of the lid are cut on the 10 degree angle to match the angle of the sides.

Oseberg chest (178) - Make sure the lid fits.

Oseberg chest (178) - The hinges are put on the lid at 1/4 of the length of the lid from the ends. Use a set square to ensure that the hinges go on at right angles. Cleat nails.
Oseberg chest (178) - Put the hasp on first.

Oseberg chest (178) - The hinges are put on the lid at 1/4 of the length of the lid from the ends. Use a set square to ensure that the hinges go on at right angles. Cleat nails.

Oseberg chest (178) - Put the hasp on first.

Oseberg chest (178) - Then attach the hasp plate. Gain a tight fit by using a sash clamp.
Oseberg chest (178) - Finally clean up and seal. I use linseed oil (boiled) and turpentine in a 1:3 ratio mix.

Oseberg chest (178) - Then attach the hasp plate. Gain a tight fit by using a sash clamp

Oseberg chest (178) - Finally clean up and seal. I use linseed oil (boiled) and turpentine in a 1:3 ratio mix.