Development & Reflection

Ossian Ward explains that there are different ways into understanding works of art, it could be; the scale, its humour, shock value, message or a meditative quality. If Ward's model is applied to Heartfield's work for example, looking at it through the lens of today, it is the message that hooks, interestingly in its day the shock value was probably the hook, but as the title of the book suggests; "Laughter is a Devastating Weapon", perhaps humour should be considered? But where does this take me? How would I like my work to be understood? Does it really matter what I think in any case? If the viewer's relationship to their own understanding of the work is more important than any meaning I might have prescribed to it, then it only has to raise interest, that is probably the best place to start!

It was the convenience that initially attracted me to the simple and relatively easy to learn process first discovered by Sir John Herschel (1792-1842) known as cyanotype. I found that I could re-purpose acetate transparencies that I had originally created for screen printing. I also discovered that I could work within the medium of photography without full reliance on digital media or the need for a darkroom.

I have noticed that there is something about the starkness and simplicity of cyanotypes that evokes a power. By using my sources to look at the work of relevant contemporary cyanotype photographers, I have tried to work out how I could emulate what they were doing to better understand the process. I researched basic sunlight exposure printing, looking into a mix of photograms and using negative transparencies, concurrently I explored the toning and manipulation of cyanotypes.

Analogue Photography

I soon realised that although cyanotype printing was both enjoyable and expressive, it was not enough for me just to reuse acetates and found objects. I decided that I wanted to go back a step to the image generation stage, to the photography that had drawn me to printing. Again this was quite convenient for me as I have a background in film, so it was easy enough for me to resurrect my knowledge. I started with some old 35 mm equipment of mine that had been gathering dust. Moving quickly onto medium format, as I supposed the larger negatives could be used for more effective contact printing.

This image carousel contains the first successful film I shot and developed with my Pentax ME Super 35mm single lens reflex camera. Before this I had several blank films come out of the developing tank that I first thought were due to the camera's light keeping capabilities, so I replaced all the seals. But frustratingly the same thing happened again and again. Eventually I tried another developer chemical, and it worked, the first batch must have been dodgy.

Although the camera has a built in light meter, which made things easier with apertures and speeds, I did keep a notebook and consult my John Garett book on black and white photography to record and refresh my knowledge.

The lens I used was a nice 50 mm that gives a lovely "bokeh" focus effect. The film used was Ilford FP4+ which is a versatile 125 asa. The fresh developer used was Ilfotec DD-X. I managed the daylight developing with a changing bag and Paterson tank.

Scanned with lightbox and digital camera

Cyanotype from acetate 1

Cyanotype from acetate 2

I was very pleased with the results as this had become quite an ordeal for me with the previous reward of blank films after all the effort. I scanned 2 of the negatives, adjusted them in PS 4, enlarged them and printed out acetates to expose over cyanotype. I had used an analogue film camera to take the photos, developed the negatives, then gone digital by scanning and manipulating, printed off acetates and gone back to an analogue method of printing to produce the cyanotypes on mixed media paper. Great workflow!

After a bit of a think, I decided that while I was on this roll (excuse the pun!) it would be a good opportunity to move onto medium format. My Mom had donated an old bellows camera (pictured in the cyanotype print above), after a bit of research I found out that it is a Kodak 'Pocket 1A'. By using the serial number, I was able to pinpoint its date of manufacture and find an online PDF manual.

The film for this camera is '116 Autogram', this is obsolete and nearly impossible to find, only some real film aficionados would spend what it costs to buy now! However by consulting online forums, I discovered that there were alternatives, the camera can be used with either paper or adapters to take readily available 120 film. I decided to go with film as I already had the daylight developing process nailed. I found an online 3d printing service who kindly made me a set of adapters, (these are basically spacers that hold the film spools in place correctly) and found some inexpensive expired film online. The format of the camera is 11 x 9 cm which means that the camera should be able to produce 6 shots from a roll of 120 film. But there is no way to monitor the frame advancement as the numbers printed on the film backing do not line up to the little red frame counting window. The frames have to be estimated by counting the turns while winding the film and hope for the best! Added to this I was armed with basically just the 'Sunny 16 rule', as I did not have a light meter, only a downloaded app on my phone. I reckoned the latitude of the film would be reasonably forgiving; Ilford Pan F +50 asa film, this was the slowest film I could easily find. I really wanted to slow down the whole process anyway, so one fine day I packed a picnic and went off around my square mile on the bicycle.

There are no f stops just aperture settings 1 - 4 (again careful guess work required), only 2 shutter speeds other then Bulb or Time, plus focusing and framing requires some patience. But I managed to get 3 and a half exposures, using DD-X developer, scanned and no real adjustment needed. I was delighted with the results, from a 100 year old camera, considering all the things that could have gone wrong, they have a feel about them that I cannot pinpoint, this is so exciting and they are this wonderful panorama format.

I did not go further with printing at this time as another camera fell into my lap!

After posting my results on Instagram, my good pal Dave Clarke rocked up at my place waving an ancient Ikon Zeis 120 mm at me, asking that if I liked old cameras, could I figure out if and how this one he had acquired worked. Well I like a challenge, so set my mind to it, but it turns out this was probably the most convoluted way of photographing images known to mankind, notwithstanding I could not find a manual of any description online or elsewhere.

Although the camera has recognizable f stops and a few more shutter speed settings than the Kodak, the rest of its operation is like some bewildering oriental puzzle box. The roll film is installed in a separate holder, there is the choice of taking 6 x 6 or 6 x 9 format photos by selecting one of 2 metal gates available. Loading the film is tricky but can be done carefully in subdued light. Choosing the 6 x 9 format, I worked out that frame monitoring is accomplished by means of counting odd numbers only, through the little red window. Focusing is managed by installing a ground glass plate in the back of the camera first and adjusting the bellows. (Interestingly Dave had told me the camera belonged to an engineer and i discovered that with the bellows fully extended the camera could take incredibly magnified macro shots.) Once you are happy with your shot, the glass is removed and replaced with the film holder, this has to be done very carefully in order not to move the camera and wreck your framing. Next the plate on the film holder needs to be removed before the exposure can be made. By now I had bought a manual light meter, in the spirit of things I did not make this easy for myself, going for a 1970's soviet selenium cell powered Leningrad for five pounds, rather than digital wizardry.

The exposure for the Ikon is best taken with a remote shutter release cable to minimise any camera shake, it is literally breathtaking!

The film used was again Pan F +50 asa, I used smaller apertures and longer shutter speeds to help with the focusing, and the developing was the same with DD-X. I produced 8 images from the film and think that the results are pretty good. After managing to operate this camera successfully I think I am ready for anything!

The fourth film camera that came into my possession was also on the Soviet theme, a 1970's Lubitel 166B, pictured with the Leningrad light meter. These medium format cameras are inexpensive, have a reputation for being quirky and a bit of a cult following that has evolved into what is now known as 'Lomography'. I just had to try one out and ordered mine from a seller in the Ukraine. The camera viewfinder is the same as most twin lens reflex, used through the top of the camera, this is a bit disorientating but I did get used to it relatively quickly.

The camera came with a manual, but in Russian, not to worry though as this is a very simple unit to operate, especially after the cameras I had already been using. Picture format is 6 x 6, the film I used was out of date Formapan 200 asa, this is apparently a classic 'Lomo' film and out of date film is actually preferred for this style of photography. The camera has a good selection of shutter speeds and f stops, easy to load and read the film counter. The lens is a fixed 70 mm, focusing and framing just a bit tricky, but nothing fazes me now!

Again I hopped on my cycle and went out to test the 'Lubbi'.

By now I am expecting results and was not disappointed with these photos. The developing although routine now, is still always really exciting. I think that the next stage would be further experimentation with these cameras; perhaps with multi exposures, different filters, longer exposures, colour film, infra red, flash and lighting, but not for now.

I am finding myself thinking more about slowing down the process even further, heading towards the kind of "seeing" that I have learnt through painting and drawing. More connected with recording information than actually capturing a split second.

I have started researching pinhole photography and I think that this is the direction I will take now.

Pinhole Photography

Through my research into the books of Christopher James and Brian J. Krummel, I learned that there were two possible routes to take; I could go and buy a pinhole camera that was either manufactured or made by someone else that would be more sophisticated; or I could make my own basic models. I decided that for reasons of impartiality I would start off on both routes. I found a quite inexpensive Holga 120 WPC, essentially a 'toy' camera. I was seduced by this camera for 2 reasons, WPC stands for 'wide pinhole camera', the camera has a 12 x 9 format (120 deg view of field) which I thought was rather exciting and secondly 120 is the film format so I could continue using the film I had been stockpiling.

While I was waiting for the Holga to arrive from Poland (quirky photography seems to be very popular in the former communist states), I made a camera from an empty syrup tin. After cleaning it out I poured some blackboard paint inside, swirled it around and let it dry, I understand it is important that the inside of cameras do not reflect light. I took some tin foil, made a pinhole in it, then drilled a quarter inch hole in the middle of the side of the can over which I taped the tin foil with gaffer, the pinhole positioned centrally. Finally I made a shutter from some electrical tape with one end folded over, this went over the pinhole. I have some out of date Afga MCP 312 RC darkroom paper, that under safe light I cut to size to fit the 'syrup pin tin', I cut 6 pieces of the paper put one in the tin and the rest in my daylight photo changing bag.

There is another consideration to be aware of with taking long exposures and that is reciprocity; as there is a relationship between light intensity and duration of exposure which determines the reaction and effectiveness of light sensitive material. So if an exposure is longer than one second, additional time needs to be added to factor that in.

I choose a day with bright sunshine and thought that landscape would be more forgiving, so I aimed for something in the foreground, mid ground and background in each shot. No need to focus as there is nothing to focus with, the tiny aperture made by the pin should be all that is needed, just point the pinhole in the general direction peel back the electrical tape and time the exposure. I made 6 exposures from 10 seconds to 1 minute, using the bag to swap out the paper. I had two envelopes for the paper so I could be sure not to expose the same piece twice and used a notebook recording the location and exposure times to keep track.

When I got home I waited until it was dark, (I had not yet set up my darkroom), mixed up PD5 print developer, stop and fixer and poured them into developing trays. The paper comes out as reversed and negative and I scanned and adjusted the images in PS4. I was completely surprised with the results, that anything came out let alone that the images were so evocative, I was totally smitten. They may be clunky and imperfect but this is something that I think you would find very hard to achieve with all the high end cameras and digital trickery in the world. Odd things in the close up foreground are as in focus as distant parts of the landscape, it is eerie.

The Holga arrived, but by then I was not quite so excited by it as I had been before the experiments with the syrup tin pin. The camera is extremely 'lo-fi', simple to load and operate, not much to it at all. I thought the results were very good, quite polished compared to the first homemade pinholes but still with another quality or feel than lens cameras. There is an option with the camera to take either 12 x 6 or 9 x 6, to get more out of the film I decided to use the 9 x 6 in the photos below. (Developed with DD-X and scanned.)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The photo in the shade of the trees I calculated for a 10 minute exposure and one on the beach in bright sunlight 2 seconds.

But the drawback to the Holga was actually using a roll of film and having to finish that off before developing. I think for me at this stage it interrupts the workflow and my thought process and I rather find that it can be a bit empty just taking snaps to use up a roll of film. I want to slow down even further, in the sense that I would prefer to go out and judiciously take maybe just one photograph, everything hanging on the decisions I make there and then, maybe sketching while waiting for a long exposure. Staying with what I have been working with and developing the same day.

Going forwards I decided to make some more cameras, I feel that there is something more personal and rewarding with the making and I would like to explore this now. I had a few 35 mm film canisters lying around and I had learned that these are suitable for making handy sized cameras. I glued magnets to the bases of these cameras so I could fix them to a tripod. This time I used a drinks can tin for making the pinholes, which are more robust than tin foil. I made a batch of these cameras and labelled them with numbers to track their exposure and subjects.

Below are the results from several experiments, all the paper negatives were developed as before and have been scanned and enhanced digitally. I am particularly fond of the third on the right, this was from a series taken with little toy soldiers and it looks like it could have been from the trenches under bombardment in WW1. All the exposures were taken in bright sunlight for 2 minutes.

Both encouraged and intrigued by what I have been achieving I researched further into camera design. I am driven to construct a camera from scratch, this will give me the opportunity to choose my focal length, angle of view and format. I believe that the complete construction will give me an even more personal attachment to the images produced. I also wanted to go bigger and looked into large format photography, i found that 4 inch by 5 inch film holders are readily available.

By using a 4 x 5 film holder as template I designed and built the camera around that, I gave the camera a focal length of 6 inches which is apparently optimal for a camera of this size and will give a 54 deg field of view. The body is made from 18 mm MDF and I made a removable back and sliding shutter from 5 mm MDF. I added spirit levels and pins for framing on both the top and one side, 1/4 inch tripod mounts and elastic to hold the back in place. To preempt any light leaks I lined the edges of the opening to the rear with a dense light sealing material. The pinhole plate was made from an aluminium drinks can, and as I am getting more technical now I measured this by photographing the hole digitally and enlarging in PS4; I worked out that the hole is equivalent to an aperture of f 240. With the removable back I can shoot on paper and with the film holders on film.

Washday

Tick-tock

These two photographs have I think taken me to a whole new creative level, I could even deconstruct them, and I have been able to give them titles so that's a start. I am using an exposure meter and a conversion chart to accurately gauge the exposure times based on the pinhole size and available light. To steady the camera it is usually positioned on a tripod or firm surface.

'Washday' was taken on paper, I wanted to record shapes, time and movement, 'Tick-tock' was also on paper and I took an experimental multiple exposure.

Mixing Media

There is something I enjoy about flipping negatives to positives, it is a bit Yin and Yang, there is negative in the positive and positive in the negative, perhaps this is something to consider concerning reconciliation.

Moving onward, the following two photos were taken on 4 x 5 Formapan 100 asa film, using the film holder I had designed the camera around.

I sketched as I waited for the exposures and while sketching the hole in the wall of the old military installation resplendent with graffiti, I was thinking of what the camera might record. I noticed not just the midground and distant view through the hole but I became aware of the insects crawling around and drew them in as well. This is becoming something to do with scale.

In both sketches I used mixed media following the techniques of Chris Forsey.

I am happy that I have been able to start combining the photography with my sketching. I was sure that I was somehow on the correct track to improve my seeing, recording information, manipulating and creating realities.

Meanwhile back in the workshop; an up scaling procedure was getting underway. The larger camera build was pretty much the same as before, but was based around a sheet of 8 x 10 inch paper. I calculated that the widest angle of view I could get on this format without vignetting would be 85 deg, this meant a focal length of 7 inches. Building a camera the second time around was easier and I made a few minor improvements. The difference in size is quite considerable as shown in the photo above.

Dancing Francis

Vanishing Horizons

This just keeps getting better and better, the size is fantastic. Both photos are on paper, the first photo above I left the camera under a tree for 20 minutes during storm Francis and kept it as a negative. The second photo reminds me of something by Robert Capa, like a beach during the Normandy landings 1944, I overexposed slightly so that the sea and sky would merge. I absolutely love the strong compositional devices combined with the greater depth of field and wider angle in the photos. Shooting 8 x 10 using conventional materials is not going to be really practical for experimentation, it is just so expensive to get the film, equipment and any positive paper. This is something I fully intend to explore though, there must be other materials that can be used to make exposures with larger formats, materials that might be available but not so expensive. I will come back to this, but for now I will return to the 4 x 5 format as I have everything I need to continue investigating the medium in this size, although I will build another camera with a wider angle.

I do feel that I have been neglecting my visual language and conceptual-ism, so before I make any more cameras I think it is important to step back and do some more drawing and thinking. I started with a little life drawing to get my eye back in and then took my sketch book out and about to do some mixed media plein air work, along the lines of Chris Forsey as before. Back in the studio I started with monochrome and then worked out a palette from colour exercises I had completed following Betty Edwards, from studying Kyffin Williams and my own observations. I made some studies from that material and edged towards abstraction.


After this warm up period I felt confident enough to work from my inspiration board and complete 'Cath's Friday Workshop' exercises 1 & 2. These exercises focusing on propaganda art from the 20th century has helped me find a way conceptually to my subject, I think that I am going to somehow aim for some monumental-ism with my work.

The third camera build (4 x 5) was very straightforward, I made a few more small improvements and a lot less mistakes. I have compared the size of the new 85 deg wider angle version, which has the shorter focal length, only 3 1/2 inches to the original longer 54 deg.

The first photo I took with the 85 deg version was the water pump outside our house, it was a 10 minute exposure on paper with sunny weather, but occasional cloud. I think the pump looks phenomenal, like Nelsons column, very dynamic with the low and wide angle combined, I left it as a negative for greater effect. The second photo I took of the trig up on Garn Fawr, (a nod to my previous project on navigation), similar lighting conditions and 8 minutes exposure, I enhanced and flipped this one to positive. Finally the third photo I have named 'The World Hanging onto the Earth' (a nod to the philosophy of Heidegger), was taken on Harman FB Direct Positive paper. This was the most surprising; overcast conditions, 10 minute exposure and absolutely no enhancement needed, it looked fantastic straight out of the developer!

Trig

The world Clinging to the Earth

I sketched the trig while waiting for the exposure. From referencing the sketch and pinhole I made 2 acrylic studies back in the studio .

I needed to satisfy my curiosity with curved focal planes and installing multiple pinholes in the same camera. Both approaches tackle in-camera manipulation of light rays and therefore effect the resulting image. Further experimentation required.

This old biscuit box has a curved focal plane and a 5 x 7 inch paper can be used.

I made 3 pinhole apertures in this old sweet tin and a 9 x 7 inch paper can be used. The photo taken was using the camera in landscape all three holes exposing at the same time.

Advanced Exploration

The stage I find myself at now is that I have; researched, built, tested cameras and conceptualized the project by applying visual language.

I think that for the next stage I need to experiment further with the cameras and at the same time bring my concept to life.

I will stick to the methods of printing that I am familiar with, although I do intend to explore what I can do to lift the printing process in due course.

The pinhole lets in a tiny ray of reality, what can be done to this how can I manipulate and enhance it ?

I will look at layers, interruptions, scale, time and repetition.

I spent a couple of days setting up and conducting the following experiments, i think the results are promising.

'The virus and the Overton Window'
8 x 10 pinhole camera, photo paper. 2 and a half minutes. Scanned and edited in PS4

Using my iphone to roughly line up the shot for the '3 Pin Tin'

The same exposure with the '3 Pin Tin' Scanned and edited in PS4

I wanted to combine one of my paintings from last year with my 4 x 5 pinhole experimentation.

I placed a glass cup inside the camera to interrupt the light.

Negative paper, exposure was 10 minutes, developed, scanned and adjusted in PS 4

Toy soldier placed inside the 4 x 5 pinhole. 'The Shadow of a Collective Ego' (influence of Jung)

This combination was taken with a wall and a garden ornament as the subject outside the camera.

Using direct positive paper, the exposure was 10 minutes, developed, scanned and adjusted in PS 4

The result is the photo becomes an upside down background to a silhouette.

I like the way the pistol has a smoking gun effect and the world is upside down.

I also observed that the further away from the focal plane an object inside the camera is, the larger it becomes, the opposite of what happens outside the camera.

I have another set of experiments I need to conduct, I would like to build even bigger cameras. But it is not economical or even possible to buy film or paper as large as I might like to go.

I have looked into various options to find suitable emulsions and make my own paper or photographic plates. I stumbled across a recently developed emulsion called 'Liquid Light', that is meant for darkroom use, I have not heard of anyone using it inside a pinhole camera yet, so I thought I would give it a try.

This photo was my 'control', taken with my tin pinhole that has a curved focal plane, I knew it would give me a relatively predictable result.

This was a 30 minute exposure on negative paper, developed, scanned and adjusted in PS4

This photo taken at the same place, time, with same duration exposure, using my 8 x 10 pinhole.

I used mixed media paper (the same I use for cyanotype, it can take multiple rinsing) This was coated with Liquid Light in the darkroom and left to dry in the dark overnight.

The streak in the middle of the photo is not a light leak, but some emulsion that was not fully dry.

The photo was then developed, scanned and adjusted in PS4. This is really exciting because if I can perfect this technique i can build a camera as large as I want to.

I intend to practice with the Liquid Light on paper, but I am also keen to try out glass and other possible substrates. I ordered a glass cutter to make some glass plates that could work well as negatives.

I returned to the darkroom to mix up a batch of the emulsion and coat plenty of paper, glass etc.

With my experiments I am not only testing the processes but I am trying to keep in mind my concept, introducing it somehow into everything I do, it is not easy as I do not know exactly what I want to say anymore. But I do know that I need to 'tap into the zeitgeist and resonate'; the message is information in art as counter propaganda, is the message in the medium? Do I try to use satire or shock, does art make any difference anyway? Especially now everything is in such a state of flux, with this virus, if it is with us for decades as predicted what is the point? I understand that pandemics have had more effect on human history than wars or famines.

"This bleeding of political art into the real world confronts the question often posed to some of our most ambitious artists: can art ever really change the world? To which the short answer is almost always, unfortunately: No" (Ward, 2014, p98)

My main concern is still the climate crisis and inequality in all its forms that I consider the greater existential threat, but this has been eclipsed in our minds by the virus/cull, which is having a profound effect on us all. Science may eventually offer partially effective flu type vaccines, but meanwhile any semblance of integrity seems to have evaporated, hard won civil liberties are being eroded by the confusing measures supposedly to keep us safe, funding for the arts as usual in a time of crisis are threatened, the current government is effectively asset stripping the country, but for what?

What on earth is the point now with this great leveler stalking? Society is changing forever, it is very scary, one would hope for a bright new sustainable future, but the track record makes a bleak reading. When we should pull together we are more divided than ever.

How can my efforts in anyway help or provide some hope? I think this is what I would like to do but without sugar coating the bitter pill. Are we now in some dystopian liminal space? Between worlds? Has it always been like this? Would being able to explain this be of any merit? The acceptance of the situation and lowering of expectations, is this something to explore? Is anybody listening? I thought I would find answers but there are only more and more questions.

I prefer to keep my head down working, solving my little creative puzzles, because whenever I put my head up to have a look around it is quite disturbing. But this cannot go on forever, we all have to face up to the 'uncomfortable' consequence that hypernormalisation really is disintegrating and there is no safety net. Does this need representing? Why, how, where, when?

Although I have been drawn to look at what I have considered the temporal world of man, which is vexing me, maybe I should instead concentrate on the earth and paint landscapes? But then again if mankind colonizes other planets perhaps we outlive this planet and the earth is shown to be temporal, difficult...

Things to consider when when making:

Time:

Association:

Background:

Understanding:

Looking again:

Assessment:

Consolidation

The world of man spiraling ever outwards, out of control, over production, over consumption, inequality, whirling towards certain oblivion. Now the virus to contend with there is also an inward spiral, inner space, thoughts whirling, the bombardment of half truths and disinformation, lock downs, confinement, withdrawal. What can we learn from this as the virus spreads and capitalist economies crash? Empathy, spirituality, lower material expectations, redistribution of essential resources, as we come to terms with phenomenal existential change. What will emerge from the maelstrom?

I had attempted using the 54 deg angle of view 4 x 5 pinhole camera in the studio, looking inwards. For lighting it is necessary to use a flashgun, this was the first successful attempt on paper with an asa of around 6. The flashgun had to be fired 10 times to get this image of one of my paintings. Agfa MCP 312 RC paper, PD5 developer, scanned and adjusted in PS 4.

I switched from paper to Fomapan film with an asa of 100, the flash only has to be fired once to get a clear exposure. This was a studio shot of 3d objects placed on one of my paintings, taken with 54 deg angle of view 4 x 5 pinhole camera. Film developed with Ilford DDX, negative scanned and adjusted in PS 4.

Continuing the same experiments using 4x5 pinhole camera with 84 deg field of view. Studio shot on 100 asa Fomapan film with flash, of one of my paintings and seashell (found 3d object). Film developed with Ilford DDX, negative scanned and adjusted in PS 4. This version is the negative.

Same shot as to the left but converted to positive. I like the flipping of negative to positive, especially of this piece that I am calling 'Echo Chamber'.

4 x 5 pinhole camera with 84 deg field of view. Outdoor shot on 100 asa Fomapan film. In this piece I have put a 80 mm crystal ball inside the camera to manipulate the light rays entering the camera. 20 second exposure in bright sunlight. Film developed with Ilford DDX, negative scanned and adjusted in PS 4.

4 x 5 pinhole camera with 84 deg field of view. Studio shot on 100 asa Fomapan film with flash. This time the 80 mm crystal ball was placed outside the camera up against the pinhole and the subject placed against the ball from the opposite side. This has manipulated the light rays quite dramatically. Film developed with Ilford DDX, negative scanned and adjusted in PS 4.

Returning to my painting practice I decided to use some of my previous landscape paintings as inspiration and strip out the context to concentrate on shape and form.

I started with the three abstract monochrome pieces above (right carousel), using acrylic, charcoal and chalk. One of these, (center carousel), I further developed by masking with tape and adding some colour, based on a palette I had been using in my previous landscapes. Another piece, (left carousel) I divided into five smaller pieces and used each of these as a base for collage, including found material, handmade paper and small cyanotypes. I spent a great deal of time thinking how to arrange and present the disparate pieces of work all conducted around the same time. Once satisfied the collages were glued in place. After more consideration I developed them further; eventually stenciling over one collage using a similar palette as before, I drew over another with a selection of inks, also based on the previous palette. I broke with the pattern on a third, where I mixed up pink pigment, acrylic medium, screen printing medium and using a screen made from a sketch, printed an image. This was a bit weak so I flipped the collage 180 degrees and printed once again.

The collages offer a way of combining and presenting my work, I am more positive and hopeful today as the result of the US elections are announced and there is a chink of light at the end of the tunnel. President Elect Biden please don't blow it!

Perhaps reconciliation is just around the corner, let us all hope so. I will try to think how I can encourage and somehow bring to life this new possibility in my work. Are we emerging from the darkness? Can this actually be happening? Is it too good to be true? Will we learn from the recent political mistakes that led to the disastrous rise of right wing populism?

It has occurred to me that my use of a crystal ball, as in the previous photos, has created a similar look to the work of Steven Pippin's Laundromat Locomotion series. Pippin is an artist that my tutor Cath Fairgrieve suggested I should research. I have subsequently learned among other things that Pippin in turn was heavily influenced by the work of Eadweard Muybridge. I looked back at my book on Muybridge and put together a series of photographs below considering his and Pippin's work, combining that with my Napoleonic (revolutionary) model soldiers, crystal ball, its spiritual clairvoyance connotation and measurement.

Looking to the future, look into the past.
The lens of now, the lens of then.
The shadows held up to today.
The jumble of history and confusion of the present.
Uncertainty of the future and how can this be measured.
What can that be measured against?
Is there any measure?
Muybridge's locomotion, measurements of movements in time.

I have two crystal balls one 80 mm and one 100 mm and I have used them both inside and outside my two 4 x 5 pinhole cameras. I have used a painting of mine as the backdrop and the models were set up on the keys of our piano with a metric/ imperial ruler. I used 100 asa film with flash and developed half the negatives with Ilford DDX and half with Rodinal. I can easily tell which ones were done in Rodinal and I now know why many film aficionados refer to it as the nectar of the gods!

On another note my tutor Peter Bodenham asked if my use of Napoleonic figures had anything to do with my square mile. After all Caragwasted Bay, known also as French Camp is within walking distance of where I live, and is the site of the infamous 'Last French Invasion' of 1797. I hadn't thought of that, but next decent weather I will make my way over there to see what I can find.

My use of model soldiers originally came from an idea I was discussing with my father; as a child during WW 2 he told me that my grandfather had returned from Germany with among other loot, some painted lead model soldiers. My father had set these up and photographed them with his Brownie Box camera. Sadly neither the photos, soldiers or camera have survived. So I was knocked out when I discovered the work of Jake and Dinos Chapman, most notably the models in their 'Hell' 1999 and 'Fucking Hell' 2008.

Something has been bothering me and it has come to a head, but I do not think I can do much more than acknowledge it now during this current project, as I am so deeply invested. I have become increasingly aware of the fact that the chemicals I am using for photography are not exactly environmentally friendly, although I have been telling myself that you have to break a few eggs to make an omelette, this is starting to make me feel a bit hypocritical given my environmental stance and the other options I could have taken. I have started researching eco photo materials but not having much luck, I may just have to press on and return to this at a later date. The reason for the issue coming to a head, was brought about when I contacted the artist and glass blower Neil Wilkin, to ask for his collaboration in making a water filled lens, and other objects to manipulate light rays. He told me that although happy to help me, he was actually planning to stop glass blowing completely, unless he could generate the temperature necessary in a sustainable way. It was this that led me to question my own practice more deeply. Notwithstanding I do take care to dispose of my chemicals carefully; I first dilute them considerably and then tip them onto land that I consider the cursed earth; we have an industrial farm nearby and their land is already void of life, so at least I don't run the risk of poisoning any worms. But this is still not fully satisfactory, as I am creating a demand for the chemicals by purchasing them in the first place, so I resolve to stop buying any new aggressive chemicals as I run out of them.

I took a couple of the pinhole still lives and manipulated them in Photoshop 4, I printed these out for possible cyanotypes as acetate positives and negatives. I also printed the images and a few more from the same series at A3 for one inspiration board and I combined a few painted studies as another inspiration board. The plan here is to revisit and rework my own interpretations somehow, like the mirror looking back at itself, echoing, I hope this will help me find new meanings.

Concurrently I started two other experiments, both triggered by my explorations and research. Thinking of sustainable inks and dyes I came across the practice of producing ink or dye from metal by leaving objects in vinegar, from this I thought I might try leaving metal screws outside on a wooden board for an extended period to see if I could make a print.

During my research I came across the artist Walead Beshty and his FedEx boxes, I liked the idea of these boxes that were made to resemble burnished copper receiving random patina from knocks and scuffs during their transits, the glass objects inside getting damaged. During the lock down so much of the things we need have to be ordered by mail delivery, and I thought this might make a topical subject. I have also been listening to a CD I bought featuring the book 'I send you this Cadmium Red', about the correspondence between artists John Berger and John Cale. I asked my father who lives in Cambridge and paints, and I have not seen in over a year now if he would like to collaborate, if this would bring us closer in some way. My idea is to make and then respond or derelict a box, send it to him, let him respond to that, contribute or interrupt my responses/ derelictions and send it back to me. This should ping pong for a set period or number of consignments, to be decided... Annoyingly a thought occurred to me after completing this box; how great it would be to have inserted a spycam to record its adventures, damn, I think that I might build another box!

After studying my inspiration boards I decided to try a cyanotype photogram; I was thinking of the crystal ball, or more specifically the paradox of crystal itself, the contradiction of 'crystal clear', but that although crystal allows light to pass through, it does refract and distort that light. I placed a few crystal cut glasses and other ornaments plundered from my mothers dresser over the model soldiers to see what that would bring. This required a 30 minute exposure under my UV light source and after rinsing in water I used a sodium carbonate bath to enhance the contrast.

Before embarking on painting after a break I always find it useful to do some life drawing or a selfie, I think my self portrait below is reflecting my current monumental/ heroic influences.

Developing the theme from the cyanotype above I made another larger more complex one using an acetate negative together with more objects, all based on my ephemera from the series of previous pinhole photographs and a few more glassware objects that are made of crystal. A metaphor for the crystal ball, that although having spiritual associations it actually manipulates light rays by refraction, 'distorting' any truth. This was a 30 minute exposure with 2 x sodium carbonate baths.

After more study of my inspiration boards and thoughts about my conceptual ideas I plunged into the painting. I started by carefully reworking chalk marks I had made on the remaining 2 of my abstract acrylic studies. Gradually I became bolder using a smallish brush tying the painting together. Then abruptly Gehard Richter was in my head, I was driven to use a paint scraper in all directions which gave the fine lines I had been painting the appearance of blurs and skids across the surface. This was looking vital and full of energy, I then marked out rough shapes of figures from my photos, first with charcoal, then more carefully with Paynes Grey acrylic mix. While the paint was still wet I employed some scraffito and more paint scraping. Finally I made some reference to the crystal by going over in large arcs with chalk, finishing off somewhere near my starting point, for this session.

The image below is an experiment I am very pleased with; I cut a sheet of 8x10 mixed media paper, coated it with light sensitive emulsion, placed that in my homemade 8 x 10 pinhole camera. Made a 30 minute exposure of one of our trees. Developed the paper negative, scanned that to create an acetate negative, coated the original paper neg with cyanotype and exposed the acetate neg over that for 30 minutes under my UV light, rinsed and bleached, rinsed again.