Anek Kuson Sala - "Carlsberg don't do museums, but if they did....."
By Wendy Merrett, September 2012
If I say Pattaya to you I am sure your mind will conjure up thoughts of drunkenness and debauchery. But head a few kilometers south and you will come to the sleepy fishing village of Bang Saray, Bang Salay, Bang Sare or however you want to say it. (I think we spotted four different spellings on the road signs!) There are a number of British and Norwegian expats here who have set up guest houses, restaurants and homes.
There is a very well looked after navy beach with crystal clear waters, a
golf course if you are that way inclined and a fantastic Wednesday night temple market that serves up delicious and cheap local food. Throw in a weekend of people watching as the Thai’s head down from Bangkok to the beach and a multitude of tasty seafood on sale and you’ve got yourself a pretty cool place to stay for a few days of r and r.
But I am not trying to sell you a holiday to Bang Saray, I am telling you that you have to see the amazing Anek Kusala Sala or Viharnra Sien – “Abode of the Gods”. The Best museum in the world – ever! It is situated in between Pattaya and Sattahip, close to Bang Saray, but if you are in Bangkok you can visit on a day trip from there. And you should.
The museum was set up by the Chinese-Thai community to honour His
Majesty the King. The Chinese government gave 328 precious and valuable
items to the museum as a gift to the king. These include terracotta soldiers and bronze chariots from the tomb of Emperor Quin Shi, more commonly known as the terracotta army. This is the only place outside of China that has a permanent display of the terracotta soldiers. I have been lucky enough to visit X’ian in China and see the army and watch the endless hard work of those involved in the excavation of the tomb. The model version in the Anek Kusala Sala begins to reflect the enormity of the size of the complex in China.
But it isn’t just the terracotta army that is worth the visit. Outside you will
find the statue of the eight immortals crossing the ocean, opposite a huge laughing Buddha and surrounded by stone sculptures of animals of the Chinese zodiac. There are two huge entrance protectors and the ground floor houses amazingly detailed bronze sculptures. As you go up the stairs you are surrounded by artwork including cave style paintings and Chinese handwriting. On the outer upper level you will find my favourite exhibit, bronze statues of Shao Lin monks, each in a different position and facing their master. I felt certain that they would come alive as they are so life like. Inside there are examples of Thai and Chinese musical instruments and puppets and some incredibly intricate wooden elephant carvings. It is the
kind of place that you could visit over and over again and find something new to admire every time you went. You could spend hours wandering through the statues, paintings and all the other things I have forgotten to mention.
The museum itself is very well kept, the exhibits and surrounding areas are immaculate. Although it is set in a temple a member of staff I spoke told me it as important that people understood it was first a foremost a museum, everyone of any nationality, race or religion was welcome. And we were incredibly welcomed.
50 Baht - £1 well spent!