August 2010
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Beaming the Warp
Demonstrated by Greig Kothe

Greig prefers to wind two warps for a project.  In A, using one warp.  When tensioned for winding on, the ends pull towards the centre causing added tension on the edge threads.  In B the two warps are tensioned for winding on with two hands giving a more even spread of tension on the ends.

Tie guide threads from the front beam through to the back beam.  Later, these threads will hold the cross-sticks in place while you work.

Tie the raddle firmly on to the back beam. This raddle is 4 epc. 

Find the end loops of the warps at the raddle cross and slip the back beam apron rod through the end loops.  The end loops must be seated on either side of the centre apron rod strings.

Lay the warp out towards the front beam.  Unchain a little, secure or tie it to the front beam so that you have gentle tension.  Loosen the tie on the raddle cross but do not cut it off.  In the raddle, mark the width of your warp, here Greig used a black thread.

  If you have a reed with 4 dents to the cm., separating 4 ends at a time, spread the warp in the raddle.

Once the warp is spread across the raddle, do not remove the yarn acting as a guide to the raddle cross. ( If, for some reason along the way, the threading cross gets lost, the warp can be wound onto the front beam.  The raddle cross can then be picked up with the cross sticks. Wind the warp back onto the back beam, moving the cross toward the front as you go and  use the raddle cross to thread the heddles.)

Continue to spread the second warp across the raddle.









Close the raddle to keep the ends safely in place.









Straighten the warp on the back apron rod behind the raddle so that the threads are evenly spaced and parallel.

With the warp under light tension, wind the apron rod one revolution around the roller.

Once a revolution has been completed, untie the first choke tie on both warps.
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