... including helpful hints on caring for canoes and equipment

WHY DOESN’T ACACIA CANOES HAVE ON-LINE SHOPPING?

There are two reasons for this. Firstly, despite numerous assurances from various financial and commercial interests, the fact remains that there is not (and probably never will be) guaranteed information security on the World Wide Web. High-end encryption software is often regarded as little more than a temporary inconvenience by those hackers and scammers who are out to get hold of your hard earned dollars. At Acacia Canoes we do not encourage the inclusion of personal financial details in any internet-based communication with us.

Secondly, whilst the WWW can be a useful research tool, it does not always give the valuable information and insights you can glean from face-to-face interactions with experienced paddlers and retailers. Also it is of limited value if you need to physically examine the products you are looking to buy. Those new to the sport should be especially wary of relying on information obtained mainly from the web as they may not have the necessary experience to meaningfully interpret the claims and counter-claims made by the various manufacturers and reviewers.

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT BOAT IS RIGHT FOR ME?

This is the tricky bit – you need canoeing experience to make the right purchasing decision, yet you are unlikely to have this experience when you are new to the sport. To further compound the problem, it is highly likely that your interests within the sport will change as your knowledge, experience and skill levels increase. Firstly, don’t be in a hurry to buy a boat, even if you are only planning to get a second-hand cheapie. The pleasure of canoeing is all about positive feedback – you will keep doing it if you enjoy it, but you may well lose interest if you have the wrong (eg too unstable, too slow) boat. There are a number of ways of getting the experience you need – take some canoeing lessons, join in on social canoe outings, hire different types of craft, go to canoe club try-out sessions, talk to other experienced paddlers etc. You can get valuable advice from an experienced canoe retailer, however make sure you deal with someone who wants to supply a boat that’s right for you and not a retailer who is concerned merely with moving the stock they have in store.

HOW SHOULD I STORE MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

Do not leave your canoe or kayak sitting on its hull on the floor or ground.

CANOE: Decked canoes can be stored in the same way as kayaks – see below. For semi-decked and open style craft a simple storage method is to place the canoe upside down on horizontal padded bars/poles, stands, sawhorses or solid blocks of wood. Some people even suspend their canoe on ropes or slings and use a pulley system so they can lower it directly onto their vehicle. Whichever method you employ, ensure the middle section of the craft is supported evenly – not less than (but not too much more than) a third of the boat's length apart – and never suspend a canoe by its end caps, internal fittings or carry handles.

KAYAK: At the very least rest it on a padded (eg thick carpet, foam) surface and lean it against a wall – either on its end (short plastic kayak) or on its side (longer plastic or fibreglass craft). A good storage option is to gently rest the kayak on its side against a wall, either sitting on padded horizontal bars or poles fixed to the wall or suspended from padded rope or strap slings secured to the wall or ceiling. Supports should ideally hold the middle section of the kayak and be about a third of the boat’s length apart. Never suspend a kayak by its rudder assembly, deck fittings or carry toggles. Acacia Canoes carries a range of kayak storage racks and slings – just contact us for details.

GENERAL: UV radiation from the sun is the enemy of most of the materials used in modern canoe and kayak construction. The majority of craft these days are moulded from plastics – either fibre-reinforced like GRP (fibreglass), Kevlar or carbon fibre, or non-reinforced like polyethylene or multi-layer thermoform plastics. Fibreglass craft usually have an external “Gel-coat” resin layer that can develop stress cracks after prolonged sun exposure. These cracks, although often unsightly, usually have little impact on the craft’s structural integrity. All modern polyethylene boats contain UV inhibitors, however prolonged sun exposure will accelerate degradation of the plastic material and lead to premature brittleness. To maximise the life of your craft, it is best to store it out of direct sunlight when not in use.

HOW SHOULD I TRANSPORT MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

CANOE: Transport upside down (on a padded surface if possible) on roof racks or an appropriate trailer. Roof rack cradles are not required unless you intend to carry your canoe right side up, in which case be aware of any potential problems resulting from excessive rainwater pooling.

KAYAK: Many canoe outlets suggest that kayaks be transported upside down on (padded) roof racks or on a trailer. Although doing this will certainly prevent damage from rainwater pooling, be alert to the possibility of internal fittings shaking loose on rough roads and falling out – this can be a particular problem in some fibreglass kayaks with fittings (eg footrests) held in place with bolts and wing nuts. There is nothing wrong with transporting kayaks right way up – just remember you may need to fit a cockpit cover to keep out the rain and creepy crawlies. Roof rack kayak cradles can sometimes be a worthwhile investment as they reduce the amount of tension needed to secure a craft to the racks and this will help to preserve the shape of the hull (particularly handy for plastic craft).

Rotationally moulded plastic sit-on-top kayaks are most vulnerable where the bail hole shafts (scuppers) join to the deck and hull. Apart from their main purpose (ie to drain water from the deck) the scuppers also provide structural rigidity to the craft. By not sitting on the kayak unless it is floating you can minimise the likelihood of any structural fatigue issues developing. It is advisable not to tie ropes through the scuppers and certainly never use them to bear any weight whatsoever when carrying or otherwise transporting the craft.

GENERAL: Make sure roof racks are of good quality and are properly secured to the vehicle – periodic inspection is recommended. If you are using a vehicle fitted with more than two cross bars, be careful not to damage your boat by securing it to the outside bars and compressing its hull onto the inner bars. A trailer can be useful for transporting a number of craft, however make sure you are familiar with all relevant statutory requirements, especially those pertaining to registrable trailer length and legal overhang.

Although boats must be properly secured to your vehicle, be careful not to over-tighten ropes or straps as this can lead to hull distortion. Webbing straps with ladder-lock or cam-lock buckles are durable, inexpensive, easy to use and seem to be less prone to over-tightening. As some ropes and webbing straps can stretch considerably when wet, you should also be alert to the possibility of hull distortion caused by firmly tied (wet) ropes/straps drying out and shrinking during transportation.

WHAT SHOULD I DO BEFORE USING MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

Always ensure that drain plugs, hatches, inspection port lids and flotation bag valves are properly secured before launching your craft. This is especially important for those craft that rely on water-tight compartments, sealed hulls or flotation bags for their buoyancy. Contact glue may be used to attach small pieces of closed-cell foam to any fittings or accessories that might sink if accidentally dropped into the water. Neoprene and hard hatch covers can also be secured with cord to external deck fittings to prevent loss and help keep them free of sand and grit. Always carry a small roll of good quality fabric backed adhesive tape with you in case emergency repairs are required. This tape will adhere to any type of plastic or plastic resin surface provided that the surface is dry. You can find more information on our Trip Preparation page.

WHAT SHOULD I DO AFTER USING MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

Hose off your canoe or kayak with fresh water before storage – particularly after use in salty water. In fact, given the highly corrosive nature of salt water, you might want to wash and dry your boat immediately after use so as to reduce the likelihood of rust damage to your vehicle/trailer from dripping salt water. Take special care to flush out any salt crystals or sand particles that may deposit in rudder cable tubes or footrest tracks to prevent them from seizing up. Loosen drain plugs, hatch covers, inspection port lids and flotation bag valves to equalise the air pressure in sealed compartments and remove any neoprene covers to prevent bungy cords from over-stretching.

HOW DO I CLEAN MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

Competition paddlers tend to be particular about the condition of their hulls since increases in water friction can adversely affect boat speed. For the rest of us there is very little reason to stress out over the appearance of scratches in fibreglass hulls, or scratches and peeling strips in polyethylene hulls, as their effect on the utility of the craft is often imperceptible. If you do feel compelled to clean your boat, good old soap and water will usually do the trick.

There are many products available (eg fibreglass polishes, UV stabilising treatments etc) that are designed to preserve or even improve the appearance of our boats. However, the frictional forces generated by a hull either moving through water or rubbing against rocks, sand or coral can wear away these protective coatings quite quickly. Paddlers should weigh up the likely benefits of using such products against their possible adverse effects on some of our more fragile river and marine ecosystems – in other words, be kind to the environment and leave these products alone.

HOW DO I REPAIR MY CANOE OR KAYAK?

Small cracks or splits in a fibreglass craft can be repaired using repair kits available from good hardware stores. For larger repair jobs you may need to source materials from a fibreglass supplier or repairer. If you don’t feel comfortable doing your own repairs then get the job done by a professional.

Many polyethylene craft have a seamless single-piece construction with a large surface area that can distort due to incorrect storage or heavy impacts during use. Plastic materials retain a limited “memory” of their moulded shape and, after bending or denting, will often spring back into shape over the next few days. However if a hull is subjected to constant abuse (eg over-tightening onto roof racks) it will start to lose that memory and may adapt to its new distorted shape. This eventually happens (to varying degrees) to most plastic craft – especially canoes – and generally does not affect their utility, although water speed may slow somewhat if “waving” in the hull becomes severe. Bends and dents that do not self-correct over time may be treated by (a) exposing the affected area to direct sunlight for no longer than a few hours at a time, (b) applying hot (but not boiling) water to the affected area on the inside of the boat, and/or (c) applying weights (not too heavy) to the affected area to help restore the original shape. Heating appliances eg hair dryers may also be used to correct hull distortions, however be careful – in the wrong hands they can actually make matters worse. If in doubt, seek professional advice about the best treatment method for your craft. In the unlikely event you put a split in a polyethylene hull, seek informed advice about the best repair method. Professional plastics welders can usually make a very strong repair, however those not experienced in canoe/kayak repairs may end up compromising the hydrodynamic properties of your boat in the process.

HOW DO I CARE FOR MY PADDLING ACCESSORIES?

PADDLES: Most paddles require little maintenance other than rinsing off with fresh water after use and storage out of direct sunlight. Inspect blades and shafts periodically for cracks or leaks and consult your local manufacturer or repairer where appropriate – a damaged paddle will generally fail completely at the most inappropriate time. Wooden paddles may require more regular and careful inspection to ensure that the varnish is intact and that the wood is neither drying out nor being damaged by water penetration. Seek advice where appropriate from someone experienced in marine wood applications.

PFD’s: The foam buoyancy in any personal flotation device (PFD) will deteriorate over time, however some simple precautions can considerably extend their usable life. Avoid direct exposure to harsh chemicals (including the ingredients found in some creams, lotions and oils) and avoid heavily contaminated or excessively saline water. Rinse after use and especially after use in salt water. Use only warm soapy water if cleaning is necessary (this should not need to be very often). Hang out to dry on a clothes hanger in the shade – never dry in direct sunlight. Store PFD’s in a well-ventilated area and never put them away while they are still wet as this will only encourage the growth of moulds. Don't use your PFD as a cushion – compressing the foam will inevitably reduce the effectiveness of its buoyancy. Never leave a PFD locked in a motor vehicle on a hot day as high temperatures may hasten the deterioration of its foam buoyancy.

HELMETS: As with many sports helmets, canoeing helmets are designed to withstand only one major impact before requiring replacement. Periodically inspect your helmet and replace it as soon as any cracks appear in the outer shell. Internal cradles should be replaced if there is any visible damage. Some cradle helmets (eg Ace Competition) have no in-built flotation – adding a piece of sleeping mat foam between the cradle and the shell will provide sufficient buoyancy if accidentally dropped in the water.

SPRAY DECKS: Make sure you know how to attach a spray-deck properly. Firstly you should be sitting in your boat with the spray-deck correctly fitted to your body. To attach the spray deck to the boat, start by leaning back and rolling the rear bungy cord over the rear of the cockpit rim. Using both hands slowly work the bungy along under the rim around each side of your body and pull gently on each side when level with your stomach to secure it in place. Lean forward and pull the front of the spray deck (with the bungy cord between the thumb and fore-finger of each hand) over the front coaming before tucking each side in under the rim. Make sure the release tab is on the outside and is accessible. Never fit a neoprene spray deck by pushing on the material with your fingers – this will only damage the neoprene material. When you remove your spray cover at the end of the day, hang it up somewhere to drip-dry – don’t just throw it down on the ground. Never leave a spray cover attached to the boat as this can over-stretch the bungy cord. Dry out after use (in the shade) and store in a cool well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Never leave your spray deck locked in a motor vehicle on a hot day as high temperatures can cause neoprene to shrink or distort and bungy cord to lose its elasticity.