Denali

5/21-6/12/2007 - Denali:

Itinerary

5/21/2007: Casey McCoy, Eileen Bistrisky, Rodger LeBedz, Jesse Samuels, Joel Schenk, Justin Carreno & I flew onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7200’. We packed our gear and traveled to 7800’ on the main Kahiltna Glacier. We arrived early on the 22nd and set up camp tired from hauling over 140 pounds of food and gear.

Elevation Gain: 1000’

Elevation Loss: 400’

5/22/2007: Rest/Acclimatize

5/23/2007: Casey, Jesse, Joel & I headed up to 11000’ and set up camp. The remaining climbers took a more conservative pace for the remainder of the trip.

Elevation Gain: 3200’

5/24/2007: Rest/Acclimatize

5/25/2007: We carried about half our food and gear to 13500’ and skied down. The snow was firm and there were many crevasses to avoid around Windy Corner. The pitch below Windy Corner was good powder. Just above Motorcycle Hill, the snow was very firm. Motorcycle Hill had a breakable suncrust. We stayed on the main path which had snow the consistency of a groomer.

Elevation Gain: 2500’

Elevation Loss: 2500’

5/26/2007: Jesse developed high altitude pulmonary edema. Casey and I took him down to 7800’ where we stayed for the night.

Elevation Loss: 3200’

5/27/2007: We continued back down to basecamp (7200’) where we left Jesse to be flown out. Casey and I continued back up to 11000’.

Elevation Gain: 4600’

Elevation Loss: 1400’

5/28/2007: The rest of us traveled up to 14200’. I picked up my cache at 13500’.

Elevation Gain: 3200’

5/29/2007: Casey and Joel picked up their caches at 13500’. I built a wall around our tent.

5/30/2007: Rest/Acclimatize

5/31/2007: We carried food and gear up to ~16700’. The original plan was to cache at 17200’, but poor weather forced an early return. I noticed the metal plate of my binding was broken and cached my skis as well.

Elevation Gain: ~2500’

Elevation Loss: ~2500’

6/1-8/2007: Bad weather days

6/9/2007: Casey & I traveled up to 17200’, grabbing our cache and my skis and set up camp.

Elevation Gain: 3000’

6/10/2007: Casey & I climbed to the summit (20,320’) and skied down. The summit ridge was easy, but exposed. Pig Hill had decent powder and the rest of the decent was firm. Joel moved up to 17200’.

Elevation Gain: 3120’

Elevation Loss: 3120’

Brian Kalet at ~17,000' on Denali's West Buttress.  Photo: Joel Schenk.

6/11-12/2007: Joel made an attempt at the summit, but gave up at Denali Pass (18200’) due to low visibility. We headed down to basecamp and arrived on the morning of the 12th. We weren’t able to fly off the glacier until the 14th due to poor visibility.

Elevation Gain: 400’

Elevation Loss: 10,400’